Wiki CCC Göttingen - Benutzerbeiträge [de]

Drawdio

2013-02-13T19:30:36Z

Marvin:

[[Datei:Drawdio1.jpg|thumb|400px]]
[[Datei:Drawdio2.jpg|thumb|400px]]

This Drawdio is a clone of the famous [http://web.media.mit.edu/~silver/drawdio/ Drawdio by Jay Silver]. This design is optimized to be cheap enough and have a component orientation that makes soldering quite easy, so you can train soldering SMT components for the first time. This the Drawdio accompanies our SMT soldering workshop.

==Schematic==
[[File:Drawdio.pdf]]

==Getting the Design Data==
You can checkout the git repository with the gschem schematics and geda pcb board file:
<pre>
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/drawdio
</pre>

==Building Tutorial==
===Kit Overview===
Your kit contains the following parts:
* SMD Parts:
** 1x 555 Timer IC
** 1x 1N400x Diode
** 3x 100 nF Capacitor
** 1x Timing Capacitor
** 1x 10 kOhm Resistor
** 1x 330 kOhm Resistor
* a circuit board
* a pencil
* two pieces of insulated wire
* a battery connector with wires
* (silver enameled) copper wire
* a speaker
* shrink tube

===555 Timer===
We start with soldering the 555 Timer IC. For this, first think about how it has to be placed on the PCB. The area should be relatively easy to determine, you can do this either by the form of the pads where the legs will be soldered to or by the name: The place is marked "U1".

Then the orientation of this device is important. You can see a notch on the IC marker on the PCB. On the IC this side is also marked, for example by a dot or a thick line.

# Now add a little bit of tin to the upper left pad on PCB. Do this by heading up the pad with your soldering iron and ''then'' applying tin to the pad, not the tip.
# Grab the IC with your tweezers in your lead hand. Grab the soldering iron with your other hand. Heat up the pad you just added solder to and then place the IC correctly onto the PCB. It should now be held in place by the one solder joint, even if this joint does not look very nice right now.
# Solder all other joints, one by one.
# Heat up the first joint and add a little bit of solder. The joint should then look nice and shiny.

===Rectifier Diode===
To protect your drawdio from anybody who tries to insert the battery in reverse, add a diode of type 4N400x (wher the x can be anything from 1 to 7). Again, the place is marked with D1. On the PCB, you will also see a diode sign. This sign can be decomposed into a triangle and a single line. The diode is correctly aligned if the single line of the diode symbol is on the same side as the line marker on the diode itself.

Go forth as last time. Add solder to one pad. Grab the diode into your lead hand, heat up the solder and place the diode. Then solder the other side of the diode. Afterwards, resolder the first joint.

===Timing Capacitor===
Now we add the timing capacitor. This capacitor can be anything from 200 to 1000 pF. A greater capacitance will tune your drawdio to oscillate at lower frequencies. The capacitor should be soldered to the place marked as C2. The orientation is irrelevant, as are all orientations of the remaining SMT components we solder in this tutorial.

===Decoupling and Blocking Capacitors===
Now we need some 100 nF capacitors. They belong to C1, C3 and C4. Use the same method as previously to solder them.

===Timing Resistors===
At last we solder the resistors that determine the timing operation of the 555. Add a 10k Resistor to R1 and a 300k Resistor to R2 using the established method.

===Battery Connector===
Add the batter connector to the two pins labeled "PWR". The black (or negative) lead of the connector goes into the hole with the round pad. The red (or positive) lead belongs into the hole with the quadratic pad.

===Speaker wiring===
Take two pieces of wire, for example a red and a black one. They should be about 4 cm in lengths. Remove the isolation on both sides of each wire for about 3mm. Twist the strands of the wire at each end and apply some solder to it. Then apply some solder to each leg of the speaker.

Join the long leg with one end of the red wire by heating up the speaker pin and holding the red wire to it. Do the same with the black wire and the short leg.

You should now have a speaker with two wires, a black and a red one. Solder these to the PCBs at the SPEAKER connector. The correct positions for black and red are marked on the back side of the PCBs with "black" and "red". Alternatively: The red one belongs into the hole with the square pad and the black one into the hole with the round pad. Solder them there.

===Preparing the Pencil===
Get a very fine saw and saw into your pencil until you see the pencil's lead. Tilt the saw about 45 degrees and remove some additional wood from the pencil. Make sure that the lead is completely accessible.

===Adding the Lead Contact===
Grab a piece of silver enameled wire and insert it into the PCB as shown in the following pictures. Make sure that the wire is at least this large and though it may be a bit larger, it should not be very much. Solder it to the PCB.

After you soldered it, grab side cutters or any other pair of pliers small enough. Bend the wire in to the following form: The notch should be there, but not be too large (for example larger than in this picture. The notch is required to hold the drawdio PCB in place until it is completely fixated.

===Adding the Hand Conact===
Now we add the hand contact. Get some 15 cm of silver enameled wire. Solder it into the remaining hole of the PCB.

===Attaching the PCB to the Pencil===
Now get some heat shrink which is a bit longer than the PCB. Place the Drawdio PCB on the pencil in such a way that the contact tooth you just bent touches the pencil's lead. The speaker and battery connector should point to the back side of the pencil, the hand connector wire Put the heat shrink over the PCB and pencil so the PCB is completely covered.

Use a lighter to carefully shrink the tube. Take some minutes to do that to avoid burning the heat shrink or damaging the electronics or even setting the pencil on fire.

Wrap the long silver enameled wire helically around the pencil so your hand will make maximal contact when holding the pencil.
[[Category:Projekte]]
[[Category:Bausaetze]]

Drawdio

2013-02-13T19:28:43Z

Marvin: /* =Kit Overview */

[[Datei:Drawdio1.jpg|thumb|400px]]
[[Datei:Drawdio2.jpg|thumb|400px]]

This Drawdio is a clone of the famous [http://web.media.mit.edu/~silver/drawdio/ Drawdio by Jay Silver]. This design is optimized to be cheap enough and have a component orientation that makes soldering quite easy, so you can train soldering SMT components for the first time. This the Drawdio accompanies our SMT soldering workshop.

==Schematic==
[[File:Drawdio.pdf]]

==Getting the Design Data==
You can checkout the git repository with the gschem schematics and geda pcb board file:
<pre>
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/drawdio
</pre>

==Building Tutorial==
===Kit Overview===
Your kit contains the following parts:
* 1x 555 Timer IC
* 1x 1N400x Diode
* 3x 100 nF Capacitor
* 1x Timing Capacitor
* 1x 10 kOhm Resistor
* 1x 330 kOhm Resistor
===555 Timer===
We start with soldering the 555 Timer IC. For this, first think about how it has to be placed on the PCB. The area should be relatively easy to determine, you can do this either by the form of the pads where the legs will be soldered to or by the name: The place is marked "U1".

Then the orientation of this device is important. You can see a notch on the IC marker on the PCB. On the IC this side is also marked, for example by a dot or a thick line.

# Now add a little bit of tin to the upper left pad on PCB. Do this by heading up the pad with your soldering iron and ''then'' applying tin to the pad, not the tip.
# Grab the IC with your tweezers in your lead hand. Grab the soldering iron with your other hand. Heat up the pad you just added solder to and then place the IC correctly onto the PCB. It should now be held in place by the one solder joint, even if this joint does not look very nice right now.
# Solder all other joints, one by one.
# Heat up the first joint and add a little bit of solder. The joint should then look nice and shiny.

===Rectifier Diode===
To protect your drawdio from anybody who tries to insert the battery in reverse, add a diode of type 4N400x (wher the x can be anything from 1 to 7). Again, the place is marked with D1. On the PCB, you will also see a diode sign. This sign can be decomposed into a triangle and a single line. The diode is correctly aligned if the single line of the diode symbol is on the same side as the line marker on the diode itself.

Go forth as last time. Add solder to one pad. Grab the diode into your lead hand, heat up the solder and place the diode. Then solder the other side of the diode. Afterwards, resolder the first joint.

===Timing Capacitor===
Now we add the timing capacitor. This capacitor can be anything from 200 to 1000 pF. A greater capacitance will tune your drawdio to oscillate at lower frequencies. The capacitor should be soldered to the place marked as C2. The orientation is irrelevant, as are all orientations of the remaining SMT components we solder in this tutorial.

===Decoupling and Blocking Capacitors===
Now we need some 100 nF capacitors. They belong to C1, C3 and C4. Use the same method as previously to solder them.

===Timing Resistors===
At last we solder the resistors that determine the timing operation of the 555. Add a 10k Resistor to R1 and a 300k Resistor to R2 using the established method.

===Battery Connector===
Add the batter connector to the two pins labeled "PWR". The black (or negative) lead of the connector goes into the hole with the round pad. The red (or positive) lead belongs into the hole with the quadratic pad.

===Speaker wiring===
Take two pieces of wire, for example a red and a black one. They should be about 4 cm in lengths. Remove the isolation on both sides of each wire for about 3mm. Twist the strands of the wire at each end and apply some solder to it. Then apply some solder to each leg of the speaker.

Join the long leg with one end of the red wire by heating up the speaker pin and holding the red wire to it. Do the same with the black wire and the short leg.

You should now have a speaker with two wires, a black and a red one. Solder these to the PCBs at the SPEAKER connector. The correct positions for black and red are marked on the back side of the PCBs with "black" and "red". Alternatively: The red one belongs into the hole with the square pad and the black one into the hole with the round pad. Solder them there.

===Preparing the Pencil===
Get a very fine saw and saw into your pencil until you see the pencil's lead. Tilt the saw about 45 degrees and remove some additional wood from the pencil. Make sure that the lead is completely accessible.

===Adding the Lead Contact===
Grab a piece of silver enameled wire and insert it into the PCB as shown in the following pictures. Make sure that the wire is at least this large and though it may be a bit larger, it should not be very much. Solder it to the PCB.

After you soldered it, grab side cutters or any other pair of pliers small enough. Bend the wire in to the following form: The notch should be there, but not be too large (for example larger than in this picture. The notch is required to hold the drawdio PCB in place until it is completely fixated.

===Adding the Hand Conact===
Now we add the hand contact. Get some 15 cm of silver enameled wire. Solder it into the remaining hole of the PCB.

===Attaching the PCB to the Pencil===
Now get some heat shrink which is a bit longer than the PCB. Place the Drawdio PCB on the pencil in such a way that the contact tooth you just bent touches the pencil's lead. The speaker and battery connector should point to the back side of the pencil, the hand connector wire Put the heat shrink over the PCB and pencil so the PCB is completely covered.

Use a lighter to carefully shrink the tube. Take some minutes to do that to avoid burning the heat shrink or damaging the electronics or even setting the pencil on fire.

Wrap the long silver enameled wire helically around the pencil so your hand will make maximal contact when holding the pencil.
[[Category:Projekte]]
[[Category:Bausaetze]]

Drawdio

2013-02-13T19:28:35Z

Marvin: /* Building Tutorial */

[[Datei:Drawdio1.jpg|thumb|400px]]
[[Datei:Drawdio2.jpg|thumb|400px]]

This Drawdio is a clone of the famous [http://web.media.mit.edu/~silver/drawdio/ Drawdio by Jay Silver]. This design is optimized to be cheap enough and have a component orientation that makes soldering quite easy, so you can train soldering SMT components for the first time. This the Drawdio accompanies our SMT soldering workshop.

==Schematic==
[[File:Drawdio.pdf]]

==Getting the Design Data==
You can checkout the git repository with the gschem schematics and geda pcb board file:
<pre>
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/drawdio
</pre>

==Building Tutorial==
===Kit Overview==
Your kit contains the following parts:
* 1x 555 Timer IC
* 1x 1N400x Diode
* 3x 100 nF Capacitor
* 1x Timing Capacitor
* 1x 10 kOhm Resistor
* 1x 330 kOhm Resistor
===555 Timer===
We start with soldering the 555 Timer IC. For this, first think about how it has to be placed on the PCB. The area should be relatively easy to determine, you can do this either by the form of the pads where the legs will be soldered to or by the name: The place is marked "U1".

Then the orientation of this device is important. You can see a notch on the IC marker on the PCB. On the IC this side is also marked, for example by a dot or a thick line.

# Now add a little bit of tin to the upper left pad on PCB. Do this by heading up the pad with your soldering iron and ''then'' applying tin to the pad, not the tip.
# Grab the IC with your tweezers in your lead hand. Grab the soldering iron with your other hand. Heat up the pad you just added solder to and then place the IC correctly onto the PCB. It should now be held in place by the one solder joint, even if this joint does not look very nice right now.
# Solder all other joints, one by one.
# Heat up the first joint and add a little bit of solder. The joint should then look nice and shiny.

===Rectifier Diode===
To protect your drawdio from anybody who tries to insert the battery in reverse, add a diode of type 4N400x (wher the x can be anything from 1 to 7). Again, the place is marked with D1. On the PCB, you will also see a diode sign. This sign can be decomposed into a triangle and a single line. The diode is correctly aligned if the single line of the diode symbol is on the same side as the line marker on the diode itself.

Go forth as last time. Add solder to one pad. Grab the diode into your lead hand, heat up the solder and place the diode. Then solder the other side of the diode. Afterwards, resolder the first joint.

===Timing Capacitor===
Now we add the timing capacitor. This capacitor can be anything from 200 to 1000 pF. A greater capacitance will tune your drawdio to oscillate at lower frequencies. The capacitor should be soldered to the place marked as C2. The orientation is irrelevant, as are all orientations of the remaining SMT components we solder in this tutorial.

===Decoupling and Blocking Capacitors===
Now we need some 100 nF capacitors. They belong to C1, C3 and C4. Use the same method as previously to solder them.

===Timing Resistors===
At last we solder the resistors that determine the timing operation of the 555. Add a 10k Resistor to R1 and a 300k Resistor to R2 using the established method.

===Battery Connector===
Add the batter connector to the two pins labeled "PWR". The black (or negative) lead of the connector goes into the hole with the round pad. The red (or positive) lead belongs into the hole with the quadratic pad.

===Speaker wiring===
Take two pieces of wire, for example a red and a black one. They should be about 4 cm in lengths. Remove the isolation on both sides of each wire for about 3mm. Twist the strands of the wire at each end and apply some solder to it. Then apply some solder to each leg of the speaker.

Join the long leg with one end of the red wire by heating up the speaker pin and holding the red wire to it. Do the same with the black wire and the short leg.

You should now have a speaker with two wires, a black and a red one. Solder these to the PCBs at the SPEAKER connector. The correct positions for black and red are marked on the back side of the PCBs with "black" and "red". Alternatively: The red one belongs into the hole with the square pad and the black one into the hole with the round pad. Solder them there.

===Preparing the Pencil===
Get a very fine saw and saw into your pencil until you see the pencil's lead. Tilt the saw about 45 degrees and remove some additional wood from the pencil. Make sure that the lead is completely accessible.

===Adding the Lead Contact===
Grab a piece of silver enameled wire and insert it into the PCB as shown in the following pictures. Make sure that the wire is at least this large and though it may be a bit larger, it should not be very much. Solder it to the PCB.

After you soldered it, grab side cutters or any other pair of pliers small enough. Bend the wire in to the following form: The notch should be there, but not be too large (for example larger than in this picture. The notch is required to hold the drawdio PCB in place until it is completely fixated.

===Adding the Hand Conact===
Now we add the hand contact. Get some 15 cm of silver enameled wire. Solder it into the remaining hole of the PCB.

===Attaching the PCB to the Pencil===
Now get some heat shrink which is a bit longer than the PCB. Place the Drawdio PCB on the pencil in such a way that the contact tooth you just bent touches the pencil's lead. The speaker and battery connector should point to the back side of the pencil, the hand connector wire Put the heat shrink over the PCB and pencil so the PCB is completely covered.

Use a lighter to carefully shrink the tube. Take some minutes to do that to avoid burning the heat shrink or damaging the electronics or even setting the pencil on fire.

Wrap the long silver enameled wire helically around the pencil so your hand will make maximal contact when holding the pencil.
[[Category:Projekte]]
[[Category:Bausaetze]]

Inventory/ICs

2013-01-20T14:11:46Z

Marvin: /* 1-Wire */

==Timer==
{{Inventory Table Header|Type}}
{{ii| 556 | DIP, 2 Timers like NE555 | Box 3 | 6 | 0.32 rei | photo=Nase_20110717_039.jpg}}
{{ii| 555 | DIP, Timer | Box 3 | 4 | 0.19 rei | photo=Nase_20110717_040.jpg}}
{{ii| 555 | SOIC, Timer | Box 3 | 10 | 0.18 rei | }}
{{Inventory Table Footer}}

==Voltage Regulator==
{{Inventory Table Header|Type}}
{{ii| 7805 | 5 V | Box 3 | 2 | tbd | photo=Nase_20110718_008.jpg}}
{{ii| 78L05 | 5 V (SOIC version of 7805, lower current and power ratings) | Box 3 | 4 | tbd | photo=Nase_20110828_007.jpg}}
{{ii| 7905 | -5 V, used | Box 3 | 10 | tbd | photo=Nase_20110718_009.jpg}}
{{ii| 7812 | 12 V, used | Box 3 | 2 | tbd | photo=Nase_20110718_010.jpg}}
{{ii| {{ds|AMS1117-50}} | 5 V | Box 3 | 2 | tbd | photo=Nase_20110725_055.jpg}}
{{ii| {{ds|LD33A}} | 3.3 V | Box 3 | 3 | tbd | photo=Nase_20110725_056.jpg}}
{{ii| {{ds|AMS1117-18}} | 1.8 V | Box 3 | 4 | tbd | photo=Nase_20110828_006.jpg}}
{{ii| {{ds|AMS1117-12}} | 1.2 V | Box 3 | 3 | tbd | photo=Nase_20110828_003.jpg}}
{{ii| {{ds|MC34063A}} | Switching Regulator, Adjustable | Box 3 | 1 | tbd | photo=Nase_20110725_040.jpg}}
{{ii| LM317 | TO-220, Adjustable | Box 3 | 0 | 0.26 | photo=Nase_20110726_001.jpg}}
{{Inventory Table Footer}}

==RS232 Driver==
{{Inventory Table Header|Type}}
{{ii| {{ds|MAX233epp}} | | Box 3 | 3 | tbd | photo=Nase_20110725_022.jpg}}
{{Inventory Table Footer}}

==Transceiver==
{{Inventory Table Header|Type}}
{{ii| {{ds|FT232R}} | USB-UART Transceiver, SSOP-28 | Box 4 | 4 | {{reichelt|article=64399}} | photo=Nase_20110816_004.jpg}}
{{ii| {{ds|ENC28J60}} | 10 MBit/s Ethernet Transceiver with SPI, DIL| Box 4 | 2 | {{reichelt|article=89340}} | photo=Nase_20110828_013.jpg}}
{{Inventory Table Footer}}

==1-Wire==
{{Inventory Table Header|Type}}
{{ii| [http://datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/DS18S20.pdf DS1820] | 1-Wire temperature sensor | ICs | 0 | | photo=Nase 20111013 003.jpg}}
{{ii| DS28E04-100 | 4096-bit addressable 1-Wire EEPROM with PIO | ICs | 1 | | photo=Nase 20111013 006.jpg}}
{{ii| DS2490 | USB to 1-Wire Bridge Chip | ICs | 1 | | photo=Nase 20111013 008.jpg}}
{{ii| DS? | 1-Wire ? | ICs | 1 | | photo=Nase 20111013 012.jpg}}
{{ii| DS2480 | Serial 1-Wire Line Driver | ICs | 1 | | photo=Nase 20111013 017.jpg}}
{{ii| [http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0f63/0900766b80f631c6.pdf DS2413] | 1-Wire dual-channel programmable I/O | ICs | 8 | 2.60 € | }}
{{Inventory Table Footer}}

==I2C==
{{Inventory Table Header|Type}}
{{ii| DS2782 | Stand-Alone Fuel Gauge IC | ICs | 1 | | photo=Nase 20111013 014.jpg}}
{{Inventory Table Footer}}

[[Category:Inventory]]

Leihgabenliste

2012-12-02T11:08:50Z

Marvin:

Um die Entsorgungsverantwortlichkeiten nicht zu vergessen, soll hier eine Leihgabenliste entstehen.

{| border="1"
! Was !! Wer !! Anmerkungen
|-
| Mikrowellenherd || Thoddi ||
|-
| Loetstation (ZDxxx) || Marvin ||
|-
| Dremel mit Spannfutter|| Marvin ||
|-
| Tektronix-Oszi || Marvin ||
|-
| HP Laserjet 2100 || Marvin ||
|-
| Aetzkuevette || Marvin ||
|-
| VIP1710 || HW ||
|-
| Kaffeemaschine || HW ||
|-
| 20m-LAN-Kabel pink || HW ||
|-
| TFT 17" || HW ||
|-
| SD2IEC-Interface für C128D || HW ||
|-
| Moodlamp || piece ||
|-
| Akkubohrschrauber || sh ||
|-
| Stehlampe || sh ||
|-
| usbasp || hefee ||
|-
| Lupenlampe || hefee ||
|-
| peaceflowers || hefee ||
|-
| Regalschienen || hefee ||
|-
| Digi-Tektronix-Oszi || Alex ||
|-
| Decke || yela ||
|-
| Wandbemalung: Farben, Pinsel, Flower, Stifte || yela ||
|-
| Balkonklappstuhl || yela ||
|-
| Regalschienen Küche || yela ||
|-
| 2? Flower Fensterbank || yela ||
|-
| Satz Kugelkopf Innensechskant Winkel 1.5 - 10 (9 Stück)|| Alex ||
|-
| 8 Glaser (Longdring)|| Alex ||
|-
| Dosenöffner|| Alex ||
|-
| Pressstempelkanne [http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressstempelkanne]|| Alex ||
|-
| USB Tastatur (schwarz) || defnull ||
|-
| Espresso Kocher (alu, lackiert) || defnull ||
|-
| [[3D-Drucker]]+ "x" || alex ||
|-
| [[Messuhr]] || alex ||
|-
| USB-Hub an Brickme || alex ||
|-
| USB-Verlängerung Wandbild || alex ||
|-
| Propan-Brenner || defnull ||
|-
| Lochzangen || Gwenyvere ||
|-
| Nietenzange || Gwenyvere ||
|-
| Switch 24 Port || Defnull ||
|-
| Ersa Lötstation || alex ||
|-
| EntLötstation || alex ||
|-
|}
[[Category:Space]]

LED Flower

2012-12-02T10:02:58Z

Marvin: We have been covered again, but there are no more kits.

[[Category:Projekte]][[Category:Bausaetze]][[Category:en]]

[[Datei:lf-0500-01.jpeg|thumb]]
[[Datei:Protoflower-01.jpeg|thumb]]

LED Flowers are a set of PWM-controlled RGB LEDs which get their settings via USB using [http://www.obdev.at/products/vusb/index.html obdev.at's USB stack]. Everything needed for this workshop is under a free license, so feel free to copy and modify.

To get started, you first need all the parts and a PCB. You can manufacture your PCB from the board data in the git repository (see [[LED Flower#Sources|Sources]]). The parts are listed in the [[LED Flower#BOM|Bill of Materials]] section including an order number from two german component sellers. Once you have obtained everything, go ahead and read the [[#Tutorial|Tutorial]]. Also you may want to get inspired by all the other LED Flowers that have been created: [[LED Flowers]].

==Sources==
Sources are available here:
http://www.0x53a.de/files/led-flower.tar.gz

==Circuit Diagram==
[[Datei:White-010-led-flower-uc.png|800px]]

[[Datei:White-021-led-flower-driver-1.png|800px]]

[[Datei:White-030-led-flower-power.png|800px]]
==PCB==
<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>
Datei:LED Flower PCB II.png|PCB model
Datei:LED Flower PCB.png|Generated PCB preview
Datei:Lf-board-01.jpeg|First PCB etched
Datei:Lf-board-02.jpeg|First revision: fully tinned
Datei:Lf-board-03.jpeg|Second revision: blue PCB, tinned pads
Datei:Lf-board-04.jpeg|Third revision: black PCB, tinned pads
</gallery>
====BOM====
Necessary
{| border="1"
! Designator
! Value
! Part-No
! Price / EUR
! Count
! Sum / EUR
|-
| R1
| 3.6 kΩ, 1206
| R:
| 0.01
| 1
| 0.01
|-
| R2
| 2.7 kΩ, 1206
| R:
| 0.01
| 1
| 0.01
|-
| R3, R4
| 68 Ω, 1%, 1206
| CSD: 10-120068
| 0.01
| 2
| 0.02
|-
| R5..R19, R38..R40
| 3.6 kΩ, 1206
| R:
| 0.01
| 18
| 0.18
|-
| R20..R31
| 100 Ω, 1206
| R:
| 0.01
| 12
| 0.12
|-
| R32..R37
| 150 Ω, 1206
| R:
| 0.01
| 6
| 0.06
|-
| B1..B3
| 0 Ω, 1206
| R:
| 0.01
| 3
| 0.03
|-
| T1..T18
| BC807-25, SOT23
| R: BC 807-25 SMD
| 0.04
| 18
| 0.72
|-
| C1, C2, C3
| 100 nF, 16 V, 0603
| R: X7R-G0603 100N
| 0.05
| 3
| 0.15
|-
| C4, C5
| 22 pF, 0603
| R: NPO-G0603 22P
| 0.05
| 2
| 0.10
|-
| C6
| 10 uF, 10 V, 0805
| R: X5R-G0805 10/16
| 0.07
| 1
| 0.07
|-
| C9
| 100 nF, 63 V, 1206
| R: X7R-G1206 100N
| 0.05
| 1
| 0.05
|-
| D2, D3
| 3.6 V Zener Diode, MiniMELF
| R: SMD ZF 3,6
| 0.05
| 2
| 0.10
|-
| X1
| 20 MHz
| R: 20,0000-HC49U-S
| 0.18
| 1
| 0.18
|-
| ISP, ADC, PWR
| 12-pin break-away connector (from a 36-pin strip)
| R: SL 1X36W 2,54
| 0.27
| 1
| 0.27
|-
| CONN_USB
| USB B connector
| R: USB BW
| 0.21
| 1
| 0.21
|-
| U1
| ATmega88-20AU
| R: ATMEGA 88-20 AU
| 2.95
| 1
| 2.95
|-
| LED1..LED6
| RGB LED
| ?
| 0.30
| 6
| 1.80
|-
| 24 Copper wires
| 40 cm copper wire cutoff
| R: CUL 500/0,63
| 13.90
| 0.058
| 0.81
|-
| colspan="5"| Sum
| 7.84
|}

Version 1: USB Powered
{| border="1"
! Designator
! Value
! Part-No
! Price / EUR
! Count
! Sum / EUR
|-
| L1
| 10 uH, 450 mA, 1210
| CSD: 146-121R010
| 0.22
| 1
| 0.22
|-
| U2, C7, C8
| Do not populate
|
| 0.00
| 0
| 0.00
|-
| colspan="5"| Sum
| 0.22
|}

Version 2: Externally powered
{| border="1"
! Designator
! Value
! Part-No
! Price / EUR
! Count
! Sum / EUR
|-
| U2
| LM1117-5.0
| CSD: LM1117DT-5,0V
| 0.95
| 1
| 0.95
|-
| C7, C8
| 10 uF, 10 V, 0805
| R: X5R-G0805 10/16
| 0.07
| 2
| 0.14
|-
| D1
| 1N4001, MELF
| R: X7R-G1206 100N
| 0.04
| 1
| 0.04
|-
| L1
| Do not populate
|
| 0.00
| 0
| 0.00
|-
| colspan="5"| Sum
| 1.13
|-
|}

Option: Button
{| border="1"
! Designator
! Value
! Part-No
! Price / EUR
! Count
! Sum / EUR
|-
| R41
| 3.6 kΩ, 1206
| R:
| 0.01
| 1
| 0.01
|-
| BTN
| Pushbutton
| ?
| 0.10
| 1
| 0.10
|-
| colspan="5"| Sum
| 0.11
|-
|}

==Tutorial==
===Preface===
This Tutorial consists of three parts. The first two parts do not necessarily have to be completed in the given order. Also, two people may work simultaneously, each on one part.

If you don't want so modify the project to look like something else (which of course would be perfectly okay) make sure that you execute every step exactly as described. Compare your result with the provided pictures. If you are unsure what to do contact [[Benutzer:Marvin|Marvin]] prior to soldering. Also, the tutorial often uses designators like R4, C1 or U2. Those can be found on the PCB images at the top of this page, the [[#BOM|Bill of Materials]] and the schematic.

If you encounter any problems with your device, you may also ask [[Benutzer:Marvin|Marvin]] for support, but only if you include a correctly focused photograph of the bottom of your PCB that has an adequate resolution and an exact description of your problem.

===Prerequisites===
I highly recommend checking out the git repository with the current sources for the firmware and control programs. If you are building this in a workshop, you probably won't need it as your tutor may provide the initial firmware. However, the control programs are the one thing that make this project interesting. See [[LED Flower#Sources]].

Clean the board with aceton before soldering.

===Part I: The PCB===
====Microcontroller====
The first step in soldering this board is also the most difficult: Soldering the microcontroller. We are going to use the drag soldering technique. To do so, we first place the microcontroller on the board to get an idea of how it should be placed afterwards. Notice the pin one mark which is a small dip in one corner of the IC. This is used to orient it correctly:
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0010-01.jpeg
</gallery>

Before proceeding, please read the entire section about soldering the microcontroller and make sure you understood everything. Now remove the microcontroller again, select one pad of the PCB and tin it. For this and the next two steps, you don't have to worry about any solder bridges, we will remove them afterwards.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0010-02.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0010-03.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0010-04.jpeg
</gallery>

Now grab the microcontroller with a pair of tweezers, heat up the tinned pad and place the microcontroller correctly. Do not overheat the microcontroller: If you are not able to position the microcontroller within about 10 seconds remove the soldering iron and try again after waiting a short amount of time.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0010-10.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0010-11.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0010-12.jpeg
</gallery>

To further secure it, also solder one pin on the opposite corner.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0010-20.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0010-21.jpeg
</gallery>

Now select one edge of the microcontroller that has not been used in the previous steps and add some Flux to pins. What comes now is not easy and probably may require multiple attempts: Solder some pins one on side of the edge at once and then just slide the soldering iron slowly and without any pressure to the other side:
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0010-30.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0010-31.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0010-32.jpeg
</gallery>

If you have done everything right (right speed, correct amount of solder and flux) all pins will be soldered to the board and there will be no bridges between them:
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0010-33.jpeg
</gallery>

If you have created any bridges, there are two ways to get rid of them:
* Add some flux (only if necessary) and drag the solder away from the microcontroller. You see in some of the pictures that I used this method here as there is solder relatively far away from the microcontroller.
* Use a desoldering gun or wig.

However, repeat this process for the three other edges that are not yet soldered completely:
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0010-40.jpeg
</gallery>

====Decoupling Capacitors====
To operate, the microcontroller needs a set of decoupling capacitors. These are two-padded components, so we will essentially replicate the first steps of the microcontroller soldering process:
* Tin one pad,
* add the component and
* solder the other side.
The first one is C9, a 100 nF capacitor in a 1206 package, the biggest of the capacitors included in this kit:
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0020-00.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0020-01.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0020-02.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0020-03.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0020-04.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0020-05.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0020-06.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0020-07.jpeg
</gallery>

Now continue with C1 using the same process. C1 is also a 100 nF capacitor, but in a 0603 package.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0030-00.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0030-01.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0030-02.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0030-03.jpeg
</gallery>

And now C2 and C3, both the same capacitor as C1.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0040-00.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0040-01.jpeg
</gallery>

====Crystal Oscillator====
Next step is the crystal oscillator. To prepare for that, we will first solder the capacitors C4 and C5 which are both 22 pf 0603 capacitors.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0050-00.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0050-01.jpeg
</gallery>

The crystal oscillator then goes directly on the other side of the PCB below those two capacitors. Just put it in and solder both pins.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0060-00.jpeg|Position of the Crystal
Datei:Lf-0060-01.jpeg|From the bottom
Datei:Lf-0060-02.jpeg|Solder both pins
</gallery>

Then clip off anything that is above the solder joint.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0060-03.jpeg|Clip off the excess wire
</gallery>

====Programming and Analog Input Headers====
Now we add two headers, one for programming the microcontroller, one for the analog input of the microcontroller. Again, the headers are on the back side of the PCB.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0070-00.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0070-01.jpeg
</gallery>

Now simply solder each pin to the PCB:
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0070-02.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0070-03.jpeg
</gallery>

====First Test====
Get a lab power supply and set the maximum voltage to 5 V and the maximum current to zero. Connect the positive terminal (red) and negative terminal (black) as shown in the picture below:
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0080-00.jpeg|The positive terminal goes to the leftmost pin of the shorter connector, the negative terminal to the middle one of the remaining three pins.
</gallery>
Slowly increase the current. The current should not exceed 20 mA.

If you have reached 20 mA, but the voltage is still below the previously set voltage limit, something is wrong. Do not further increase the current limit as this could damage the device. Check if every component is soldered and oriented correctly, check if there are any solder bridges.

If everything is okay, connect the in-system programmer. From left to right it's: MOSI, MISO, SCK, Vcc, GND, /RESET
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0080-01.jpeg
</gallery>

====Programming the Microcontroller====
Go into the source folder, adapt the programmer.mk to use your programmer and execute make fuses:
source$ make fuses
avrdude -c avrispmkII -P usb -B 100 -p m88 -U lfuse:w:0xff:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m -U efuse:w:0xf9:m

avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.02s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e930a
avrdude: reading input file "0xff"
avrdude: writing lfuse (1 bytes):

Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

avrdude: 1 bytes of lfuse written
avrdude: verifying lfuse memory against 0xff:
avrdude: load data lfuse data from input file 0xff:
avrdude: input file 0xff contains 1 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip lfuse data:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

avrdude: verifying ...
avrdude: 1 bytes of lfuse verified
avrdude: reading input file "0xdf"
avrdude: writing hfuse (1 bytes):

Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

avrdude: 1 bytes of hfuse written
avrdude: verifying hfuse memory against 0xdf:
avrdude: load data hfuse data from input file 0xdf:
avrdude: input file 0xdf contains 1 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip hfuse data:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

avrdude: verifying ...
avrdude: 1 bytes of hfuse verified
avrdude: reading input file "0xf9"
avrdude: writing efuse (1 bytes):

Writing | | 0% 0.00s ***failed;
Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.05s

avrdude: 1 bytes of efuse written
avrdude: verifying efuse memory against 0xf9:
avrdude: load data efuse data from input file 0xf9:
avrdude: input file 0xf9 contains 1 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip efuse data:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

avrdude: verifying ...
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x0000
0xf9 != 0x01
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch

avrdude: safemode: efuse changed! Was f9, and is now 1
Would you like this fuse to be changed back? [y/n] n
avrdude: safemode: Fuses OK

avrdude done. Thank you.

make: *** [fuses] Error 1

If you are asked if you want to change back the efuse as it has not been written correctly, just say 'n'. In fact the fuse has probably been written correctly, the upper bits are just not writable and always remain 1.

To program the microcontroller and check if the oscillator is working, just execute make:

source$ make
Building objects build/base.o build/usb.o build/leds.o build/usbdrv/usbdrv.o build/usbdrv/oddebug.o build/usbdrv/usbdrvasm.o -> build/out.elf -> build/out.hex
make build/out.hex
make[1]: Entering directory `source'
avr-gcc -std=gnu99 -W -Wall -pedantic -DF_CPU=20000000UL -mmcu=atmega88 -O2 -ffreestanding -Wl,--relax -c src/base.c -o build/base.o
avr-gcc -std=gnu99 -W -Wall -pedantic -DF_CPU=20000000UL -mmcu=atmega88 -O2 -ffreestanding -Wl,--relax -c src/usb.c -o build/usb.o
avr-gcc -std=gnu99 -W -Wall -pedantic -DF_CPU=20000000UL -mmcu=atmega88 -O2 -ffreestanding -Wl,--relax -c src/leds.c -o build/leds.o
avr-gcc -std=gnu99 -W -Wall -pedantic -DF_CPU=20000000UL -mmcu=atmega88 -O2 -ffreestanding -Wl,--relax -c src/usbdrv/usbdrv.c -o build/usbdrv/usbdrv.o
src/usbdrv/usbdrv.c:115: warning: overflow in implicit constant conversion
src/usbdrv/usbdrv.c:154: warning: overflow in implicit constant conversion
src/usbdrv/usbdrv.c:156: warning: overflow in implicit constant conversion
src/usbdrv/usbdrv.c: In function ‘usbHandleResetHook’:
src/usbdrv/usbdrv.c:550: warning: unused parameter ‘notResetState’
avr-gcc -std=gnu99 -W -Wall -pedantic -DF_CPU=20000000UL -mmcu=atmega88 -O2 -ffreestanding -Wl,--relax -c src/usbdrv/oddebug.c -o build/usbdrv/oddebug.o
avr-gcc -std=gnu99 -W -Wall -pedantic -DF_CPU=20000000UL -mmcu=atmega88 -O2 -ffreestanding -Wl,--relax -c src/usbdrv/usbdrvasm.S -o build/usbdrv/usbdrvasm.o
avr-gcc -std=gnu99 -W -Wall -pedantic -DF_CPU=20000000UL -mmcu=atmega88 -O2 -ffreestanding -Wl,--relax build/base.o build/usb.o build/leds.o build/usbdrv/usbdrv.o build/usbdrv/oddebug.o build/usbdrv/usbdrvasm.o -o build/out.elf
avr-size build/out.elf
text data bss dec hex filename
1862 2 65 1929 789 build/out.elf
avr-objcopy -R .eeprom -O ihex -v build/out.elf build/out.hex
copy from `build/out.elf' [elf32-avr] to `build/out.hex' [ihex]
make[1]: Leaving directory `source'
make flash
make[1]: Entering directory `source'
avrdude -c avrispmkII -P usb -B 1 -p m88 -U flash:w:build/out.hex:i

avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e930a
avrdude: NOTE: FLASH memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed
To disable this feature, specify the -D option.
avrdude: erasing chip
avrdude: reading input file "build/out.hex"
avrdude: writing flash (1864 bytes):

Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.20s

avrdude: 1864 bytes of flash written
avrdude: verifying flash memory against build/out.hex:
avrdude: load data flash data from input file build/out.hex:
avrdude: input file build/out.hex contains 1864 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip flash data:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.10s

avrdude: verifying ...
avrdude: 1864 bytes of flash verified

avrdude: safemode: Fuses OK

avrdude done. Thank you.

make[1]: Leaving directory `source'

====USB Port====
Solder R3, R4 (both 68 Ω), R2 (2.7 kΩ), D2, D3 (both 3.6 V Zener Diodes) and the USB connector as shown below.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0090-00.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0090-01.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0090-02.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0090-03.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0090-04.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0090-05.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0090-06.jpeg
</gallery>

====Testing the USB Port====
Let's test the USB port. However, note that this port does not follow the USB specifications and could damage your computer. There are at least two ways to prevent this:
* First connect the device to a hub that is not connected to the Host and see what happens. Then connect your Host to the Hub.
* Even better would be to add a USB isolator as the one used below.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0100-00.jpeg
</gallery>

After connecting the Device to your Host, you should get a notification about a new USB device:
trottel kernel: [76212.960126] usb 1-4.3.2: new low speed USB device using ehci_hcd and address 59

When you see this line, the tricky part of this Workshop is done.

====Finishing the PCB's Core====
Just to improve some electromagnetic emissions, add bridges (or 0 Ohm Resistors) B1, B2 and B3.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0110-01.jpeg
</gallery>

====Base & Reset Resistors====
Now we are going to add the /Reset pull-up resistor R1 and base resistors R8 to R19 and R38 to R40 with 3.6 kΩ resistors
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0120-00.jpeg
</gallery>

====Transistors====
Now we are adding the transistors T1 to T18 (BC807).
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0130-00.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0130-01.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0130-02.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0130-03.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0130-04.jpeg
</gallery>

====LED Resistors====
Next are the resistors that limit the current flow through the LEDs. If you are using the parts supplied at the 27C3 Peace Mission in Göttingen, you can just use the values given here. If you are using other LEDs, please calculate your own Values. First are the 150 Ω resistors R32 to R37 for the red LEDs. Then the 100 Ω resistors R26 to R31 for the green and R20 to R25 for the blue LEDs are following:
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0140-00.jpeg|The red resistors...
Datei:Lf-0150-00.jpeg|...and red, green and blue.
</gallery>

====Optional: USB Power Supply====
One way to supply the device is to use USB power. However, you should note that if you choose this option, you are not able to plug in the external power supply while the device is connected to USB. Also, the device may not conform to the USB specification in terms of power limitations.

To activate the USB power supply, just solder the 10 uH coil to L1 and a 10 uF capacitor to C6:
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0160-01.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0190-00.jpeg
</gallery>

====Optional: Voltage Regulator for external Supply====
Instead of using the USB power supply, you can also add an external supply, for example a 9V battery. '''Do not use USB power supply and the external voltage regulator simultaneously!'''

To use this supply, add a two pin connector as shown below:
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0170-00.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0170-01.jpeg
</gallery>

Then add a 1N400x diode to D1, an LM1117 (AMS1117, &c.) to U2 and 10 uF, 10V capacitors to C7 and C8:
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0170-02.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0170-03.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0170-04.jpeg
</gallery>

Test the voltage regulator by setting your lab power supply to 7.5 V and 0 A. Connect the supply to the two pins you just added and slowly increase the current limit. You should see a current of about 20 to 30 mA when the voltage limit is reached. If this is not the case, you probably did something wrong.

====Optional: Button====
Add the button BTN and resistor R41 (3.6 kΩ)
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:Lf-0180-00.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0180-01.jpeg
Datei:Lf-0180-02.jpeg
</gallery>

===Part II: The LEDs===
For this part you will need 6 RGB LEDs, about 20 centimeters of heat shrink and enameled copper wire with a diameter of 0.6 to 1.0 mm (more may work too, less may not be stable enough).
<gallery widths=600px heights=300px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0300-00.jpeg
</gallery>

Cut 4 pieces of wire off the spool, each about 30 to 40 cm in length.
<gallery widths=600px heights=300px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0300-01.jpeg
</gallery>

Use enamel removal tweezers to get 5 mm of clean copper on one end of each wire.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0300-02.jpeg
Datei:lf-0300-03.jpeg
Datei:lf-0300-04.jpeg
</gallery>

Get one LED and bend the leads outwards to about 20 to 30 degrees. This does not have to be exact as we will bend them back once we are finished.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0310-00.jpeg
Datei:lf-0310-01.jpeg
Datei:lf-0310-02.jpeg
</gallery>

Mount the LED in one finger of a third hand and pre-tin its leads.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0320-00.jpeg
Datei:lf-0320-01.jpeg
Datei:lf-0320-02.jpeg
</gallery>

Now, also tin all four wires at the end where you removed the enamel.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0320-03.jpeg
</gallery>

You can now solder the copper wires to the LED lead without adding new solder. Try to solder the wires as near to the LED case as possible. '''Beware: The copper wire may heat up faster than you think.'''
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0330-00.jpeg
</gallery>

After soldering all four wires, you can turn the LED around and clip off any extra lead.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0330-01.jpeg
Datei:lf-0330-02.jpeg
</gallery>

To prevent any short circuits, cut the heat shrink into sizes that are long enough to cover the remaining LED lead and put those pieces on the leads.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0340-00.jpeg
Datei:lf-0340-01.jpeg
</gallery>

There are many ways to shrink a heat shrink. The probably most simplistic one is to use a lighter. However, do not put the heat shrink into the flame, about 5 to 10 centimeters above the flame are enough.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0340-02.jpeg
Datei:lf-0340-03.jpeg
</gallery>

Now switch to the other end of the copper wires. Place them in a drill chuck. Make sure that the length of all wires from the chuck opening to the LED is equal.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0350-01.jpeg
Datei:lf-0350-02.jpeg
</gallery>

Firmly grab the other side of the wires and slowly start the drill. You should get something like in the images below.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0350-03.jpeg
Datei:lf-0350-04.jpeg
Datei:lf-0350-05.jpeg
</gallery>

Release the drill chuck and cut all wires to equal size. Then remove about 5 mm of enamel. Though this is not necessary it may be a good idea to tin the end of the wires.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0360-01.jpeg
Datei:lf-0360-02.jpeg
</gallery>

It's time to test our construction. Get a lab power supply, set the voltage limit to about 3.2 V and the current limit to 10 to 20 mA. Then probe different combinations on the of the wires to find out what lead is connected to ground, positive red, positive green or positive blue:
<gallery widths=600px heights=150px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0370-00.jpeg
</gallery>

To adapt the wires to the PCB, they should be bent so they are in the following order: ground, positive red, positive green and positive blue.
<gallery widths=600px heights=150px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0370-01.jpeg
</gallery>

===Part III: Putting them together===
Now we put the result of part I and part II together.
<gallery widths=600px heights=250px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0400-00.jpeg
</gallery>
To do so, we first make sure that the legs are still in the correct order: Ground, Red +, Green +, Blue +. Do this as described in part II:
<gallery widths=600px heights=100px perrow=1>
Datei:lf-0410-00.jpeg
Datei:lf-0410-01.jpeg
</gallery>
Somehow mark the ground pin, for example by bending it outwards:
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0410-02.jpeg
Datei:lf-0410-03.jpeg
</gallery>
Put the LED into the PCB. The Ground pin is the one that is clockwise the last (from the component side of the PCB, the side with the microcontroller) or the first (from the top side of the PCB, the side with the USB and programming connector).
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0420-00.jpeg
Datei:lf-0420-01.jpeg
Datei:lf-0420-02.jpeg
</gallery>
Just solder it. Make sure that the solder joints are good as those will have to withstand any force applied to the LED.
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0420-03.jpeg
Datei:lf-0420-04.jpeg
</gallery>
Now just test the LED and repeat these steps for the next five LEDs.
<gallery widths=200px heights=380px perrow=3>
Datei:lf-0430-00.jpeg
Datei:lf-0430-01.jpeg
</gallery>

===What now?===
Well, everything necessary is done! Now:
* Decorate, paint and glue until this really looks like a flower or whatever you want to have.
* Check out control programs from the official git sources to this project (see [[#Sources|Sources]]).
* Feel free to contribute any new ideas and send a photo of your flower to [mailto:fl@deaggi.net fl@deaggi.net] or simply add it yourself to [[LED Flowers]].

==Known Issues==
This project ist far from perfect:
* We do not yet implement correct LED fading. For correct human perception of the different brightness levels we would have to implement a logarithmic scale. There are some trials to do so using a 16-bit PWM instead of 8 bits in the git history, however, they all brought up different more severe issues.
* Sometimes some PWM actions are deferred due to the time-critical in-software USB operation. This leads to perceivable flickering of the LEDs when they are at a low brightness level. This also complicates the issue above as this makes it a bit harder to implement a correction on the host side.

However, both issues can be ignored, as long as you do not need calibrated colors and on every RGB LED there is one LED that is at brightness level 15 or higher.

<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 >
Datei:AlexN900 01 20111221 009.jpg
Datei:AlexN900 01 20111221 013.jpg
</gallery>

Leihgabenliste

2012-12-01T17:09:33Z

Marvin:

Um die Entsorgungsverantwortlichkeiten nicht zu vergessen, soll hier eine Leihgabenliste entstehen.

{| border="1"
! Was !! Wer !! Anmerkungen
|-
| Mikrowellenherd || Thoddi ||
|-
| Loetstation (ZDxxx) || Marvin ||
|-
| Dremel mit Spannfutter|| Marvin ||
|-
| Tektronix-Oszi || Marvin ||
|-
| HP Laserjet 2100 || Marvin ||
|-
| Aetzkuevette || Marvin ||
|-
| Sony-Laptop || Marvin ||
|-
| VIP1710 || HW ||
|-
| Kaffeemaschine || HW ||
|-
| 20m-LAN-Kabel pink || HW ||
|-
| TFT 17" || HW ||
|-
| SD2IEC-Interface für C128D || HW ||
|-
| Moodlamp || piece ||
|-
| Akkubohrschrauber || sh ||
|-
| Stehlampe || sh ||
|-
| usbasp || hefee ||
|-
| Lupenlampe || hefee ||
|-
| peaceflowers || hefee ||
|-
| Regalschienen || hefee ||
|-
| Digi-Tektronix-Oszi || Alex ||
|-
| Decke || yela ||
|-
| Wandbemalung: Farben, Pinsel, Flower, Stifte || yela ||
|-
| Balkonklappstuhl || yela ||
|-
| Regalschienen Küche || yela ||
|-
| 2? Flower Fensterbank || yela ||
|-
| Satz Kugelkopf Innensechskant Winkel 1.5 - 10 (9 Stück)|| Alex ||
|-
| 8 Glaser (Longdring)|| Alex ||
|-
| Dosenöffner|| Alex ||
|-
| Pressstempelkanne [http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressstempelkanne]|| Alex ||
|-
| USB Tastatur (schwarz) || defnull ||
|-
| Espresso Kocher (alu, lackiert) || defnull ||
|-
| [[3D-Drucker]]+ "x" || alex ||
|-
| [[Messuhr]] || alex ||
|-
| USB-Hub an Brickme || alex ||
|-
| USB-Verlängerung Wandbild || alex ||
|-
| Propan-Brenner || defnull ||
|-
| Lochzangen || Gwenyvere ||
|-
| Nietenzange || Gwenyvere ||
|-
| Switch 24 Port || Defnull ||
|-
| Ersa Lötstation || alex ||
|-
| EntLötstation || alex ||
|-
|}
[[Category:Space]]

Leihgabenliste

2012-08-12T11:50:02Z

Marvin:

Um die Entsorgungsverantwortlichkeiten nicht zu vergessen, soll hier eine Leihgabenliste entstehen.

{| border="1"
! Was !! Wer !! Anmerkungen
|-
| Mikrowellenherd || Thoddi ||
|-
| Loetstation (ZDxxx) || Marvin ||
|-
| Labornetzteil || Marvin ||
|-
| Dremel mit Spannfutter|| Marvin ||
|-
| Tektronix-Oszi || Marvin ||
|-
| HP Laserjet 2100 || Marvin ||
|-
| Aetzkuevette || Marvin ||
|-
| Bus Pirate || Marvin ||
|-
| Weller-Loetstation || Marvin ||
|-
| TFT-Monitor || Marvin ||
|-
| Sony-Laptop || Marvin ||
|-
| Dell-Laptop (gerade in Reparatur) || Marvin ||
|-
| VIP1710 || HW ||
|-
| Kaffeemaschine || HW ||
|-
| 20m-LAN-Kabel pink || HW ||
|-
| TFT 17" || HW ||
|-
| SD2IEC-Interface für C128D || HW ||
|-
| Moodlamp || piece ||
|-
| Akkubohrschrauber || sh ||
|-
| Stehlampe || sh ||
|-
| usbasp || hefee ||
|-
| Lupenlampe || hefee ||
|-
| peaceflowers || hefee ||
|-
| Regalschienen || hefee ||
|-
| Digi-Tektronix-Oszi || Alex ||
|-
| Decke || yela ||
|-
| Wandbemalung: Farben, Pinsel, Flower, Stifte || yela ||
|-
| Balkonklappstuhl || yela ||
|-
| Regalschienen Küche || yela ||
|-
| 2? Flower Fensterbank || yela ||
|-
| Satz Kugelkopf Innensechskant Winkel 1.5 - 10 (9 Stück)|| Alex ||
|-
| 8 Glaser (Longdring)|| Alex ||
|-
| Dosenöffner|| Alex ||
|-
| Pressstempelkanne [http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressstempelkanne]|| Alex ||
|-
| USB Tastatur (schwarz) || defnull ||
|-
| Espresso Kocher (alu, lackiert) || defnull ||
|-
| [[3D-Drucker]]+ "x" || alex ||
|-
| [[Messuhr]] || alex ||
|-
| USB-Hub an Brickme || alex ||
|-
| USB-Verlängerung Wandbild || alex ||
|-
| Propan-Brenner || defnull ||
|-
| Stichsäge || alex ||
|-
| Winkelschleifer || alex ||
|-
| Ratschenkasten Proxon || alex ||
|-
| Lochzangen || Gwenyvere ||
|-
| Nietenzange || Gwenyvere ||
|-
|}
[[Category:Space]]

Datei:2012-06-24-173605.jpg

2012-06-24T15:44:27Z

Marvin: hat „Datei:2012-06-24-173605.jpg“ nach „Datei:Bga-gddr-soldered.jpg“ verschoben

#WEITERLEITUNG [[Datei:Bga-gddr-soldered.jpg]]

Datei:Screenshot from 2012-06-23 21-35-12.png

2012-06-23T19:53:48Z

Marvin: hat „Datei:Screenshot from 2012-06-23 21-35-12.png“ nach „Datei:Bauminforotz.png“ verschoben

#WEITERLEITUNG [[Datei:Bauminforotz.png]]

Hauptseite

2012-06-20T13:24:26Z

Marvin: /* Veranstaltungen */

__NOTOC__
Dies ist die Seite des '''CCC Göttingen'''. Wir sind der Göttinger Erfa-Kreis des [http://www.ccc.de/ '''Chaos Computer Club'''] und unterhalten den Hackerspace [[Noklab|'''Noklab''']].

<center>'''[[Mitglied werden]]!'''</center>



=Veranstaltungen=

Jeden zweiten Dienstag um 20 Uhr ist im [[Noklab]] ein explizit öffentliches Treffen, das '''[[OpenChaos]]'''. Jeder der uns kennenlernen möchte ist eingeladen an diesem Termin unverbindlich und spontan vorbeizuschauen.
Es finden Diskussionen zu aktuellen Themen und den laufenden Projekten statt und zudem werden unregelmäßig Vorträge gehalten, die '''[[Lightning Talks]]'''.

{|class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" style="background-color:#6f6fd7;"|Termine von uns, benachbarten Erfas und Veranstaltungen zu denen wir fahren
|-
! style="width:10em;"|Date || Veranstaltung || Location
|-
| '''20-Juni/19Uhr'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | OSM-Stammtisch und Bastelabend
| align="right" | '''Noklab'''
|-
| '''26-Juni'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | cccgoe Plenum
| align="right" | '''Noklab'''
|-
| '''3-Juli'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [[OpenChaos]]
| align="right" | '''Noklab'''
|-
| '''10-Juli'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | cccgoe Plenum
| align="right" | '''Noklab'''
|-
| '''17-Juli'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [[OpenChaos]]
| align="right" | '''Noklab'''
|-
| '''20-Juli - 22-Juli'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [[ Planung_Regiowochenende_2012 | CCC Regiotreffen 2012 ]]
| align="right" | '''Göttingen'''
|-
| '''24-Juli'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | cccgoe Plenum
| align="right" | '''Noklab'''
|-
| '''02-Aug. - 08-Aug.'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [https://erlangen.ccc.de/index.php/Hauptseite ICMP]
| align="right" | '''Franken'''
|-
| '''17-Aug. - 19-Aug.'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [[ Fredelsloh_2012 | Hack-In Fredelsloh 2012 ]]
| align="right" | '''Fredelsloh'''
|-
| '''07-Sep. - 09-Sep.'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [http://mrmcd.net/ MRMCD 2012]
| align="right" | '''Darmstadt'''
|-
| '''13-Okt. - 14-Okt.'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [https://www.c3d2.de/news/ds11-ds12.html Datenspuren]
| align="right" | '''Dresden'''
|-

|}
''Auch in anderen Städten lohnt es sich bei den jeweiligen [http://ccc.de/de/regional Chaostreffs, Erfakreise], [http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/ Hackerspaces] und FabLabs nach aktuellen Terminen zu schauen. Für Infos über größere Events besucht events.ccc.de.''

[[Vergangenes|(unvollständig) Vergangene Events]]

= Projekte =
{|class="wikitable"
!colspan="3"|Aktive Projekte
|-
|[[3D-Drucker]] || 3-D drucken und am Drucker basteln || Mitarbeit erwünscht
|-
|[[Pixelflut]] || Netzwerk+Pixel=Kunst || Fertig, Nutzer gesucht
|-
|[[Norbot]] || XMPP/Jabber Bot || Pausiert
|-
|[[Modlight | Moodlights]] || [[Noklab]] Raumbeleuchtung || Gehäuse fehlen, Software fehlt, etc. Mitarbeit erwünscht
|-
|[[Wandbemalung]] || NOKLAB Wandbemalung mit Features || Mitarbeit / Ideen erwünscht
|-
|[[Logo]] || Entwicklung von Logos für NOKLAB und ccc_goe || Mitarbeit / Ideen erwünscht
|-
| [[Hackercocktail]] || Liste lustiger Cocktails zum Coden || immer erweiterbar
|-
|[[Inventory|E-Lager]] || Lager an Elektronikbauteilen für den täglichen Gebrauch || immer korrigierbar
|-
|[[CmS|Chaos macht Schule]] || Wenn jemand anfängt, machen sicher mehr mit || Anstoss erwünscht
|-
|}

{|class="wikitable"
!colspan="2"|Abgeschlossene Projekte
|-
|[[Spacemaster_7000]] || Rosanes Device, um Spacestatus in den MUC zu posten.
|-
|[[Schliesssystem]] || Automatisches Türöffnungssystem
|-
|[[No Apple Sign]] || Statusanzeige, ob Applegeräte im NOKLAB sind
|-
|[[TVBGone/en|TVBGone]] || Bausatz für TVBGone
|-
|[[Bweamer]] || schwarz/weiß Beamer mit LED
|-
|[[Kuschelig]] || Heizungssteuerung per XMPP
|-
|[[USB Keyboard]] ||
|-
|[[2wiki.sh]] || Fotoupload ins Mediawiki per N900 (TODO: port aufs N9)
|-
|[[Marble Storage Ring]] || Murmelbahn, die [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljPB0DanK74 läuft und läuft und ...]
|-
|[[Sprachchat]] || Mumble
|-
|[[Brainfuck-Ook-Compiler]] ||
|-
|[[OZ960-hack]] || Reparatur der Hintergrundbeleuchtung eines Samsung X10 Notebooks
|-
|}

Hardwarestuff zum Verbasteln für neue Projekte findet ihr [[Rumflieghardware|hier]].

[[:Category:Bausaetze|Bausätze]]

[[:Category:Projekte|Projektarchiv]]

= Kontakt =
[[File:Anfahrt.png|thumb|300px|roter Marker: [[Noklab]] (Neustadt 7, 37073 Göttingen); türkiser Marker: Bahnhof Göttingen]]
{{:Communication}}

===Wegbeschreibung===
Zum Noklab: Vom Bahnhof aus die Goetheallee Richtung Innenstadt laufen und die zweite Strasse (Neustadt) rechts abbliegen.

Parken: In der Strasse kann nach 19 Uhr unter der Woche und nach 17 Uhr am Samstag kostenlos geparkt werden.

Inventory

2012-06-20T10:14:27Z

Marvin: /* Inventory Categories */

==Introduction==
[[File:Nase 20110725 078.jpg|thumb|300px|Inventory :D]]
This set of pages lists the all the electronics related parts that are (or were) in stock. The purpose of this stock is to provide fast access to a small assortment of commonly needed parts, so you don't have to order them if you decide you want to hack something '''now'''. We would like to make the use of this stock as easy as possible. But before you do anything, please read this short introduction.

=== Update The Inventory Table!===
As many of us are not that familiar with what is actually in those boxes, it is extremely comfortable to just search a wiki page for the part you need. If you add anything to or take anything from our stock, please update the corresponding amounts in inventory table. If you don't want to provide a photo or are unable to do so, ask someone with a [[2wiki.sh|2wiki-enabled camera]] (e.g. [[Benutzer:Marvin]]).

Basically, there are three levels of accuracy:
# Accurate Numbers
# Estimations (~ or >)
# Values that are not yet determined (tbd)
If you are taking parts, please do not switch to a less accurate level (for example from ''estimated'' to ''tbd''). If you add parts, you are free to reduce accuracy.

If a box is empty or nearly empty, please read about [[#Ordering]].

=== Pay For Your Goods ===
The initial stock has been set up by donations of very few people. The idea behind those donations were that if you take something, the space should be compensated by something of equal or higher value to reach several goals:
* Ability to re-fill empty boxes
* Extending the diversity
* Ability to supply free parts for space-related projects

The minimum value of the compensation is determined using the prices listed in the inventory tables. Follow these rules if you want to get the price of a part:
<ul>
<li>
'''The price of this part is listed:''' Pay at least this price
</li>
<li>
'''The price of this part is not listed, but a distributor is given:''' This means that we bought the part from this distributor. Please pay the price that is currently listed by the distributor. Add taxation if necessary.
</li>
<li>
'''The price of this part is not listed, but a distributor and the typical order quantity is given:''' Pay the price that is currently listed by the distributor for the given quantity. Add taxation if necessary.
</li>
<li>
'''The price of this part is listed as ''tbd'':''' You should find a distributor that we typically order from, add it to the table and pay the listed amount. If you are unsure, talk to other space members about this.
</li>
</ul>

If you want to compensate with other parts (or maybe tools) and you are not sure that those are actually going to be used in the space, ask first!

==Inventory Categories==
* [[Inventory/Resistors|Resistors]]
* [[Inventory/Capacitors|Capacitors]]
* [[Inventory/Microcontrollers|Microcontrollers]]
* [[Inventory/Mechanical Devices|Mechanical Devices]]
* [[Inventory/Diodes|Diodes]]
* [[Inventory/Optical Devices|Optical Devices]]
* [[Inventory/Transistors|Transistors]]
* [[Inventory/Crystals|Crystals]]
* [[Inventory/Sensors|Sensors]]
* [[Inventory/Operational Amplifiers|Operational Amplifiers]]
* [[Inventory/Logic|Logic]]
* [[Inventory/ICs|ICs]]
* [[Inventory/RF|RF]]
* [[Inventory/Inductors|Inductors]]
* [[Inventory/Assorted|Assorted]]
or have a look at the full inventory page: [[Inventory/Full]]

==Ordering==
Please have a look at [[Inventory/Meta/Ordering]] for ordering new stuff or refilling empty boxes.

[[Category:en]]

Inventory/Full

2012-06-20T10:12:44Z

Marvin:

__NOTOC__
=Resistors=
{{:Inventory/Resistors|Resistors}}
=Capacitors=
{{:Inventory/Capacitors|Capacitors}}
=Microcontrollers=
{{:Inventory/Microcontrollers|Microcontrollers}}
=Mechanical Devices=
{{:Inventory/Mechanical Devices|Mechanical Devices}}
=Diodes=
{{:Inventory/Diodes|Diodes}}
=Optical Devices=
{{:Inventory/Optical Devices|Optical Devices}}
=Transistors=
{{:Inventory/Transistors|Transistors}}
=Crystals=
{{:Inventory/Crystals|Crystals}}
=Sensors=
{{:Inventory/Sensors|Sensors}}
=Opamps=
{{:Inventory/Operational Amplifiers|Operational Amplifiers}}
=Logic=
{{:Inventory/Logic|Logic}}
=ICs=
{{:Inventory/ICs|ICs}}
=RF=
{{:Inventory/RF|RF}}
=Inductors=
{{:Inventory/Inductors|Inductors}}
=Assorted=
{{:Inventory/Assorted|Assorted}}
[[Category:Space]]
[[Category:Inventory]]
[[Category:en]]

Datei:Nase 20090101 004.jpg

2012-06-05T07:27:54Z

Marvin: hat eine neue Version von „Datei:Nase 20090101 004.jpg“ hochgeladen

Datei:Nase 20120523 002.jpg

2012-05-23T10:03:38Z

Marvin:

Leihgabenliste

2012-05-20T10:59:11Z

Marvin:

Um die Entsorgungsverantwortlichkeiten nicht zu vergessen, soll hier eine Leihgabenliste entstehen.

{| border="1"
! Was !! Wer !! Anmerkungen
|-
| Mikrowellenherd || Thoddi ||
|-
| Loetstation (ZDxxx) || Marvin ||
|-
| Labornetzteil || Marvin ||
|-
| Dremel mit Spannfutter|| Marvin ||
|-
| Tektronix-Oszi || Marvin ||
|-
| HP Laserjet 2100 || Marvin ||
|-
| Aetzkuevette || Marvin ||
|-
| Bus Pirate || Marvin ||
|-
| Weller-Loetstation || Marvin ||
|-
| PicKit 3 (clone) || Marvin ||
|-
| TFT-Monitor || Marvin ||
|-
| Sony-Laptop || Marvin ||
|-
| Dell-Laptop (gerade in Reparatur) || Marvin ||
|-
| VIP1710 || HW ||
|-
| Kaffeemaschine || HW ||
|-
| 20m-LAN-Kabel pink || HW ||
|-
| TFT 17" || HW ||
|-
| SD2IEC-Interface für C128D || HW ||
|-
| Moodlamp || piece ||
|-
| Akkubohrschrauber || sh ||
|-
| Stehlampe || sh ||
|-
| usbasp || hefee ||
|-
| Lupenlampe || hefee ||
|-
| peaceflowers || hefee ||
|-
| Regalschienen || hefee ||
|-
| Digi-Tektronix-Oszi || Alex ||
|-
| Zwei Decken || yela ||
|-
| Satz Kugelkopf Innensechskant Winkel 1.5 - 10 (9 Stück)|| Alex ||
|-
| 8 Glaser (Longdring)|| Alex ||
|-
| Dosenöffner|| Alex ||
|-
| Pressstempelkanne [http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressstempelkanne]|| Alex ||
|-
| USB Tastatur (schwarz) || defnull ||
|-
| [[3D-Drucker]]+ "x" || alex ||
|-
| [[Messuhr]] || alex ||
|}
[[Category:Space]]

Kunstsammlung

2012-05-16T11:13:39Z

Marvin: /* Touchscreen Werkstattinterface */

Diese Seite soll spontane Fotos unserer Kunstwerke enthalten

==Hardcore Prototyping==
PIC32 minimum circuitry (except pullup on MCLR) with enameled wire on a copper board.
<gallery widths=400 heights=200>
Datei:Nase 20120422 002.jpg
</gallery>

==U+202e==
<gallery widths=400 heights=200>
Datei:Screenshot at 2011-12-31 00-40-03.png
</gallery>

==Touchscreen Werkstattinterface==
Ein kleines interface zum steuern meiner Werkbank:
<gallery widths=400 heights=300>
Datei:Rlctl.png
</gallery>

==Cheese soldering==
Using a newly bought IR soldering station to get a grilled cheese bread.
<gallery widths=400 heights=300>
Datei:Nase 20120516 003.jpg
</gallery>

Datei:Nase 20120516 003.jpg

2012-05-16T11:12:48Z

Marvin:

Drawdio

2012-05-14T21:56:48Z

Marvin: /* Attaching the PCB to the Pencil */

[[Datei:Drawdio1.jpg|thumb|400px]]
[[Datei:Drawdio2.jpg|thumb|400px]]

This Drawdio is a clone of the famous [http://web.media.mit.edu/~silver/drawdio/ Drawdio by Jay Silver]. This design is optimized to be cheap enough and have a component orientation that makes soldering quite easy, so you can train soldering SMT components for the first time. This the Drawdio accompanies our SMT soldering workshop.

==Schematic==
[[File:Drawdio.pdf]]

==Getting the Design Data==
You can checkout the git repository with the gschem schematics and geda pcb board file:
<pre>
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/drawdio
</pre>

==Building Tutorial==
===555 Timer===
We start with soldering the 555 Timer IC. For this, first think about how it has to be placed on the PCB. The area should be relatively easy to determine, you can do this either by the form of the pads where the legs will be soldered to or by the name: The place is marked "U1".

Then the orientation of this device is important. You can see a notch on the IC marker on the PCB. On the IC this side is also marked, for example by a dot or a thick line.

# Now add a little bit of tin to the upper left pad on PCB. Do this by heading up the pad with your soldering iron and ''then'' applying tin to the pad, not the tip.
# Grab the IC with your tweezers in your lead hand. Grab the soldering iron with your other hand. Heat up the pad you just added solder to and then place the IC correctly onto the PCB. It should now be held in place by the one solder joint, even if this joint does not look very nice right now.
# Solder all other joints, one by one.
# Heat up the first joint and add a little bit of solder. The joint should then look nice and shiny.

===Rectifier Diode===
To protect your drawdio from anybody who tries to insert the battery in reverse, add a diode of type 4N400x (wher the x can be anything from 1 to 7). Again, the place is marked with D1. On the PCB, you will also see a diode sign. This sign can be decomposed into a triangle and a single line. The diode is correctly aligned if the single line of the diode symbol is on the same side as the line marker on the diode itself.

Go forth as last time. Add solder to one pad. Grab the diode into your lead hand, heat up the solder and place the diode. Then solder the other side of the diode. Afterwards, resolder the first joint.

===Timing Capacitor===
Now we add the timing capacitor. This capacitor can be anything from 200 to 1000 pF. A greater capacitance will tune your drawdio to oscillate at lower frequencies. The capacitor should be soldered to the place marked as C2. The orientation is irrelevant, as are all orientations of the remaining SMT components we solder in this tutorial.

===Decoupling and Blocking Capacitors===
Now we need some 100 nF capacitors. They belong to C1, C3 and C4. Use the same method as previously to solder them.

===Timing Resistors===
At last we solder the resistors that determine the timing operation of the 555. Add a 10k Resistor to R1 and a 300k Resistor to R2 using the established method.

===Battery Connector===
Add the batter connector to the two pins labeled "PWR". The black (or negative) lead of the connector goes into the hole with the round pad. The red (or positive) lead belongs into the hole with the quadratic pad.

===Speaker wiring===
Take two pieces of wire, for example a red and a black one. They should be about 4 cm in lengths. Remove the isolation on both sides of each wire for about 3mm. Twist the strands of the wire at each end and apply some solder to it. Then apply some solder to each leg of the speaker.

Join the long leg with one end of the red wire by heating up the speaker pin and holding the red wire to it. Do the same with the black wire and the short leg.

You should now have a speaker with two wires, a black and a red one. Solder these to the PCBs at the SPEAKER connector. The correct positions for black and red are marked on the back side of the PCBs with "black" and "red". Alternatively: The red one belongs into the hole with the square pad and the black one into the hole with the round pad. Solder them there.

===Preparing the Pencil===
Get a very fine saw and saw into your pencil until you see the pencil's lead. Tilt the saw about 45 degrees and remove some additional wood from the pencil. Make sure that the lead is completely accessible.

===Adding the Lead Contact===
Grab a piece of silver enameled wire and insert it into the PCB as shown in the following pictures. Make sure that the wire is at least this large and though it may be a bit larger, it should not be very much. Solder it to the PCB.

After you soldered it, grab side cutters or any other pair of pliers small enough. Bend the wire in to the following form: The notch should be there, but not be too large (for example larger than in this picture. The notch is required to hold the drawdio PCB in place until it is completely fixated.

===Adding the Hand Conact===
Now we add the hand contact. Get some 15 cm of silver enameled wire. Solder it into the remaining hole of the PCB.

===Attaching the PCB to the Pencil===
Now get some heat shrink which is a bit longer than the PCB. Place the Drawdio PCB on the pencil in such a way that the contact tooth you just bent touches the pencil's lead. The speaker and battery connector should point to the back side of the pencil, the hand connector wire Put the heat shrink over the PCB and pencil so the PCB is completely covered.

Use a lighter to carefully shrink the tube. Take some minutes to do that to avoid burning the heat shrink or damaging the electronics or even setting the pencil on fire.

Wrap the long silver enameled wire helically around the pencil so your hand will make maximal contact when holding the pencil.
[[Category:Projekte]]
[[Category:Bausaetze]]

Drawdio

2012-05-12T20:48:53Z

Marvin: /* Attaching the PCB to the Pencil */

[[Datei:Drawdio1.jpg|thumb|400px]]
[[Datei:Drawdio2.jpg|thumb|400px]]

This Drawdio is a clone of the famous [http://web.media.mit.edu/~silver/drawdio/ Drawdio by Jay Silver]. This design is optimized to be cheap enough and have a component orientation that makes soldering quite easy, so you can train soldering SMT components for the first time. This the Drawdio accompanies our SMT soldering workshop.

==Schematic==
[[File:Drawdio.pdf]]

==Getting the Design Data==
You can checkout the git repository with the gschem schematics and geda pcb board file:
<pre>
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/drawdio
</pre>

==Building Tutorial==
===555 Timer===
We start with soldering the 555 Timer IC. For this, first think about how it has to be placed on the PCB. The area should be relatively easy to determine, you can do this either by the form of the pads where the legs will be soldered to or by the name: The place is marked "U1".

Then the orientation of this device is important. You can see a notch on the IC marker on the PCB. On the IC this side is also marked, for example by a dot or a thick line.

# Now add a little bit of tin to the upper left pad on PCB. Do this by heading up the pad with your soldering iron and ''then'' applying tin to the pad, not the tip.
# Grab the IC with your tweezers in your lead hand. Grab the soldering iron with your other hand. Heat up the pad you just added solder to and then place the IC correctly onto the PCB. It should now be held in place by the one solder joint, even if this joint does not look very nice right now.
# Solder all other joints, one by one.
# Heat up the first joint and add a little bit of solder. The joint should then look nice and shiny.

===Rectifier Diode===
To protect your drawdio from anybody who tries to insert the battery in reverse, add a diode of type 4N400x (wher the x can be anything from 1 to 7). Again, the place is marked with D1. On the PCB, you will also see a diode sign. This sign can be decomposed into a triangle and a single line. The diode is correctly aligned if the single line of the diode symbol is on the same side as the line marker on the diode itself.

Go forth as last time. Add solder to one pad. Grab the diode into your lead hand, heat up the solder and place the diode. Then solder the other side of the diode. Afterwards, resolder the first joint.

===Timing Capacitor===
Now we add the timing capacitor. This capacitor can be anything from 200 to 1000 pF. A greater capacitance will tune your drawdio to oscillate at lower frequencies. The capacitor should be soldered to the place marked as C2. The orientation is irrelevant, as are all orientations of the remaining SMT components we solder in this tutorial.

===Decoupling and Blocking Capacitors===
Now we need some 100 nF capacitors. They belong to C1, C3 and C4. Use the same method as previously to solder them.

===Timing Resistors===
At last we solder the resistors that determine the timing operation of the 555. Add a 10k Resistor to R1 and a 300k Resistor to R2 using the established method.

===Battery Connector===
Add the batter connector to the two pins labeled "PWR". The black (or negative) lead of the connector goes into the hole with the round pad. The red (or positive) lead belongs into the hole with the quadratic pad.

===Speaker wiring===
Take two pieces of wire, for example a red and a black one. They should be about 4 cm in lengths. Remove the isolation on both sides of each wire for about 3mm. Twist the strands of the wire at each end and apply some solder to it. Then apply some solder to each leg of the speaker.

Join the long leg with one end of the red wire by heating up the speaker pin and holding the red wire to it. Do the same with the black wire and the short leg.

You should now have a speaker with two wires, a black and a red one. Solder these to the PCBs at the SPEAKER connector. The correct positions for black and red are marked on the back side of the PCBs with "black" and "red". Alternatively: The red one belongs into the hole with the square pad and the black one into the hole with the round pad. Solder them there.

===Preparing the Pencil===
Get a very fine saw and saw into your pencil until you see the pencil's lead. Tilt the saw about 45 degrees and remove some additional wood from the pencil. Make sure that the lead is completely accessible.

===Adding the Lead Contact===
Grab a piece of silver enameled wire and insert it into the PCB as shown in the following pictures. Make sure that the wire is at least this large and though it may be a bit larger, it should not be very much. Solder it to the PCB.

After you soldered it, grab side cutters or any other pair of pliers small enough. Bend the wire in to the following form: The notch should be there, but not be too large (for example larger than in this picture. The notch is required to hold the drawdio PCB in place until it is completely fixated.

===Adding the Hand Conact===
Now we add the hand contact. Get some 15 cm of silver enameled wire. Solder it into the remaining hole of the PCB.

===Attaching the PCB to the Pencil===
Now get some heat shrink which is a bit longer than the PCB.. Place the Drawdio PCB on the pencil in such a way that the contact tooth you just bent touches the pencil's lead. The speaker and battery connector should point to the back side of the pencil, the hand connector wire Put the heat shrink over the PCB and pencil so the PCB is completely covered.

Use a lighter to carefully shrink the tube. Take some minutes to do that to avoid burning the heat shrink or damaging the electronics or even setting the pencil on fire.

Wrap the long silver enameled wire helically around the pencil so your hand will make maximal contact when holding the pencil.
[[Category:Projekte]]
[[Category:Bausaetze]]

Drawdio

2012-05-12T20:30:57Z

Marvin: /* Adding the Lead Contact */

[[Datei:Drawdio1.jpg|thumb|400px]]
[[Datei:Drawdio2.jpg|thumb|400px]]

This Drawdio is a clone of the famous [http://web.media.mit.edu/~silver/drawdio/ Drawdio by Jay Silver]. This design is optimized to be cheap enough and have a component orientation that makes soldering quite easy, so you can train soldering SMT components for the first time. This the Drawdio accompanies our SMT soldering workshop.

==Schematic==
[[File:Drawdio.pdf]]

==Getting the Design Data==
You can checkout the git repository with the gschem schematics and geda pcb board file:
<pre>
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/drawdio
</pre>

==Building Tutorial==
===555 Timer===
We start with soldering the 555 Timer IC. For this, first think about how it has to be placed on the PCB. The area should be relatively easy to determine, you can do this either by the form of the pads where the legs will be soldered to or by the name: The place is marked "U1".

Then the orientation of this device is important. You can see a notch on the IC marker on the PCB. On the IC this side is also marked, for example by a dot or a thick line.

# Now add a little bit of tin to the upper left pad on PCB. Do this by heading up the pad with your soldering iron and ''then'' applying tin to the pad, not the tip.
# Grab the IC with your tweezers in your lead hand. Grab the soldering iron with your other hand. Heat up the pad you just added solder to and then place the IC correctly onto the PCB. It should now be held in place by the one solder joint, even if this joint does not look very nice right now.
# Solder all other joints, one by one.
# Heat up the first joint and add a little bit of solder. The joint should then look nice and shiny.

===Rectifier Diode===
To protect your drawdio from anybody who tries to insert the battery in reverse, add a diode of type 4N400x (wher the x can be anything from 1 to 7). Again, the place is marked with D1. On the PCB, you will also see a diode sign. This sign can be decomposed into a triangle and a single line. The diode is correctly aligned if the single line of the diode symbol is on the same side as the line marker on the diode itself.

Go forth as last time. Add solder to one pad. Grab the diode into your lead hand, heat up the solder and place the diode. Then solder the other side of the diode. Afterwards, resolder the first joint.

===Timing Capacitor===
Now we add the timing capacitor. This capacitor can be anything from 200 to 1000 pF. A greater capacitance will tune your drawdio to oscillate at lower frequencies. The capacitor should be soldered to the place marked as C2. The orientation is irrelevant, as are all orientations of the remaining SMT components we solder in this tutorial.

===Decoupling and Blocking Capacitors===
Now we need some 100 nF capacitors. They belong to C1, C3 and C4. Use the same method as previously to solder them.

===Timing Resistors===
At last we solder the resistors that determine the timing operation of the 555. Add a 10k Resistor to R1 and a 300k Resistor to R2 using the established method.

===Battery Connector===
Add the batter connector to the two pins labeled "PWR". The black (or negative) lead of the connector goes into the hole with the round pad. The red (or positive) lead belongs into the hole with the quadratic pad.

===Speaker wiring===
Take two pieces of wire, for example a red and a black one. They should be about 4 cm in lengths. Remove the isolation on both sides of each wire for about 3mm. Twist the strands of the wire at each end and apply some solder to it. Then apply some solder to each leg of the speaker.

Join the long leg with one end of the red wire by heating up the speaker pin and holding the red wire to it. Do the same with the black wire and the short leg.

You should now have a speaker with two wires, a black and a red one. Solder these to the PCBs at the SPEAKER connector. The correct positions for black and red are marked on the back side of the PCBs with "black" and "red". Alternatively: The red one belongs into the hole with the square pad and the black one into the hole with the round pad. Solder them there.

===Preparing the Pencil===
Get a very fine saw and saw into your pencil until you see the pencil's lead. Tilt the saw about 45 degrees and remove some additional wood from the pencil. Make sure that the lead is completely accessible.

===Adding the Lead Contact===
Grab a piece of silver enameled wire and insert it into the PCB as shown in the following pictures. Make sure that the wire is at least this large and though it may be a bit larger, it should not be very much. Solder it to the PCB.

After you soldered it, grab side cutters or any other pair of pliers small enough. Bend the wire in to the following form: The notch should be there, but not be too large (for example larger than in this picture. The notch is required to hold the drawdio PCB in place until it is completely fixated.

===Adding the Hand Conact===
Now we add the hand contact. Get some 15 cm of silver enameled wire. Solder it into the remaining hole of the PCB.

===Attaching the PCB to the Pencil===
[[Category:Projekte]]
[[Category:Bausaetze]]

Drawdio

2012-05-12T20:29:05Z

Marvin: /* Adding the Lead Contact */

[[Datei:Drawdio1.jpg|thumb|400px]]
[[Datei:Drawdio2.jpg|thumb|400px]]

This Drawdio is a clone of the famous [http://web.media.mit.edu/~silver/drawdio/ Drawdio by Jay Silver]. This design is optimized to be cheap enough and have a component orientation that makes soldering quite easy, so you can train soldering SMT components for the first time. This the Drawdio accompanies our SMT soldering workshop.

==Schematic==
[[File:Drawdio.pdf]]

==Getting the Design Data==
You can checkout the git repository with the gschem schematics and geda pcb board file:
<pre>
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/drawdio
</pre>

==Building Tutorial==
===555 Timer===
We start with soldering the 555 Timer IC. For this, first think about how it has to be placed on the PCB. The area should be relatively easy to determine, you can do this either by the form of the pads where the legs will be soldered to or by the name: The place is marked "U1".

Then the orientation of this device is important. You can see a notch on the IC marker on the PCB. On the IC this side is also marked, for example by a dot or a thick line.

# Now add a little bit of tin to the upper left pad on PCB. Do this by heading up the pad with your soldering iron and ''then'' applying tin to the pad, not the tip.
# Grab the IC with your tweezers in your lead hand. Grab the soldering iron with your other hand. Heat up the pad you just added solder to and then place the IC correctly onto the PCB. It should now be held in place by the one solder joint, even if this joint does not look very nice right now.
# Solder all other joints, one by one.
# Heat up the first joint and add a little bit of solder. The joint should then look nice and shiny.

===Rectifier Diode===
To protect your drawdio from anybody who tries to insert the battery in reverse, add a diode of type 4N400x (wher the x can be anything from 1 to 7). Again, the place is marked with D1. On the PCB, you will also see a diode sign. This sign can be decomposed into a triangle and a single line. The diode is correctly aligned if the single line of the diode symbol is on the same side as the line marker on the diode itself.

Go forth as last time. Add solder to one pad. Grab the diode into your lead hand, heat up the solder and place the diode. Then solder the other side of the diode. Afterwards, resolder the first joint.

===Timing Capacitor===
Now we add the timing capacitor. This capacitor can be anything from 200 to 1000 pF. A greater capacitance will tune your drawdio to oscillate at lower frequencies. The capacitor should be soldered to the place marked as C2. The orientation is irrelevant, as are all orientations of the remaining SMT components we solder in this tutorial.

===Decoupling and Blocking Capacitors===
Now we need some 100 nF capacitors. They belong to C1, C3 and C4. Use the same method as previously to solder them.

===Timing Resistors===
At last we solder the resistors that determine the timing operation of the 555. Add a 10k Resistor to R1 and a 300k Resistor to R2 using the established method.

===Battery Connector===
Add the batter connector to the two pins labeled "PWR". The black (or negative) lead of the connector goes into the hole with the round pad. The red (or positive) lead belongs into the hole with the quadratic pad.

===Speaker wiring===
Take two pieces of wire, for example a red and a black one. They should be about 4 cm in lengths. Remove the isolation on both sides of each wire for about 3mm. Twist the strands of the wire at each end and apply some solder to it. Then apply some solder to each leg of the speaker.

Join the long leg with one end of the red wire by heating up the speaker pin and holding the red wire to it. Do the same with the black wire and the short leg.

You should now have a speaker with two wires, a black and a red one. Solder these to the PCBs at the SPEAKER connector. The correct positions for black and red are marked on the back side of the PCBs with "black" and "red". Alternatively: The red one belongs into the hole with the square pad and the black one into the hole with the round pad. Solder them there.

===Preparing the Pencil===
Get a very fine saw and saw into your pencil until you see the pencil's lead. Tilt the saw about 45 degrees and remove some additional wood from the pencil. Make sure that the lead is completely accessible.

===Adding the Lead Contact===
Grab a piece of silver enameled wire and insert it into the PCB as shown in the following pictures. Make sure that the wire is at least this large and though it may be a bit larger, it should not be very much. Solder it to the PCB.

After you soldered it, grab side cutters or any other pair of pliers small enough. Bend the wire in to the following form: The notch should be there, but not be too large (for example larger than in this picture. The notch is required to hold the drawdio PCB in place until it is completely fixated.
[[Category:Projekte]]
[[Category:Bausaetze]]

Drawdio

2012-05-12T20:25:56Z

Marvin: /* Preparing the Pencil */

[[Datei:Drawdio1.jpg|thumb|400px]]
[[Datei:Drawdio2.jpg|thumb|400px]]

This Drawdio is a clone of the famous [http://web.media.mit.edu/~silver/drawdio/ Drawdio by Jay Silver]. This design is optimized to be cheap enough and have a component orientation that makes soldering quite easy, so you can train soldering SMT components for the first time. This the Drawdio accompanies our SMT soldering workshop.

==Schematic==
[[File:Drawdio.pdf]]

==Getting the Design Data==
You can checkout the git repository with the gschem schematics and geda pcb board file:
<pre>
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/drawdio
</pre>

==Building Tutorial==
===555 Timer===
We start with soldering the 555 Timer IC. For this, first think about how it has to be placed on the PCB. The area should be relatively easy to determine, you can do this either by the form of the pads where the legs will be soldered to or by the name: The place is marked "U1".

Then the orientation of this device is important. You can see a notch on the IC marker on the PCB. On the IC this side is also marked, for example by a dot or a thick line.

# Now add a little bit of tin to the upper left pad on PCB. Do this by heading up the pad with your soldering iron and ''then'' applying tin to the pad, not the tip.
# Grab the IC with your tweezers in your lead hand. Grab the soldering iron with your other hand. Heat up the pad you just added solder to and then place the IC correctly onto the PCB. It should now be held in place by the one solder joint, even if this joint does not look very nice right now.
# Solder all other joints, one by one.
# Heat up the first joint and add a little bit of solder. The joint should then look nice and shiny.

===Rectifier Diode===
To protect your drawdio from anybody who tries to insert the battery in reverse, add a diode of type 4N400x (wher the x can be anything from 1 to 7). Again, the place is marked with D1. On the PCB, you will also see a diode sign. This sign can be decomposed into a triangle and a single line. The diode is correctly aligned if the single line of the diode symbol is on the same side as the line marker on the diode itself.

Go forth as last time. Add solder to one pad. Grab the diode into your lead hand, heat up the solder and place the diode. Then solder the other side of the diode. Afterwards, resolder the first joint.

===Timing Capacitor===
Now we add the timing capacitor. This capacitor can be anything from 200 to 1000 pF. A greater capacitance will tune your drawdio to oscillate at lower frequencies. The capacitor should be soldered to the place marked as C2. The orientation is irrelevant, as are all orientations of the remaining SMT components we solder in this tutorial.

===Decoupling and Blocking Capacitors===
Now we need some 100 nF capacitors. They belong to C1, C3 and C4. Use the same method as previously to solder them.

===Timing Resistors===
At last we solder the resistors that determine the timing operation of the 555. Add a 10k Resistor to R1 and a 300k Resistor to R2 using the established method.

===Battery Connector===
Add the batter connector to the two pins labeled "PWR". The black (or negative) lead of the connector goes into the hole with the round pad. The red (or positive) lead belongs into the hole with the quadratic pad.

===Speaker wiring===
Take two pieces of wire, for example a red and a black one. They should be about 4 cm in lengths. Remove the isolation on both sides of each wire for about 3mm. Twist the strands of the wire at each end and apply some solder to it. Then apply some solder to each leg of the speaker.

Join the long leg with one end of the red wire by heating up the speaker pin and holding the red wire to it. Do the same with the black wire and the short leg.

You should now have a speaker with two wires, a black and a red one. Solder these to the PCBs at the SPEAKER connector. The correct positions for black and red are marked on the back side of the PCBs with "black" and "red". Alternatively: The red one belongs into the hole with the square pad and the black one into the hole with the round pad. Solder them there.

===Preparing the Pencil===
Get a very fine saw and saw into your pencil until you see the pencil's lead. Tilt the saw about 45 degrees and remove some additional wood from the pencil. Make sure that the lead is completely accessible.

===Adding the Lead Contact===
Grab a piece of silver enameled wire and insert it into the PCB as shown in the following pictures. Make sure that the wire is at least this large and though it may be a bit larger, it should not be very much.
[[Category:Projekte]]
[[Category:Bausaetze]]

Drawdio

2012-05-12T20:20:40Z

Marvin: /* Speaker wiring */

Drawdio

2012-05-12T20:10:43Z

Marvin: /* Speaker wiring */

Drawdio

2012-05-12T20:07:48Z

Marvin: /* Battery Connector */

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:58:38Z

Marvin:

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:52:24Z

Marvin: /* Timing Capacitor */

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:48:36Z

Marvin: /* Timing Capacitor */

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:43:36Z

Marvin: /* Timing Capacitor */

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:42:32Z

Marvin: /* Timing Capacitor */

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:42:07Z

Marvin: /* Rectifier Diode */

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:40:48Z

Marvin: /* Rectifier Diode */

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:39:12Z

Marvin: /* 555 Timer */

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:27:00Z

Marvin:

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:26:26Z

Marvin:

This Drawdio is a clone of the famous [http://web.media.mit.edu/~silver/drawdio/ Drawdio by Jay Silver]. This design is optimized to be cheap enough and have a component orientation that makes soldering quite easy, so you can train soldering SMT components for the first time. This the Drawdio accompanies our SMT soldering workshop.

==Schematic==
[[File:Drawdio.pdf]]

[[Datei:Drawdio1.jpg|thumb|400px]]
[[Datei:Drawdio2.jpg|thumb|400px]]

==Getting the Design Data==
You can checkout the git repository with the gschem schematics and geda pcb board file:
<pre>
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/drawdio
</pre>

==Building Tutorial==
===555 Timer===
We start with soldering the 555 Timer IC. For this, first think about how it has to be placed on the PCB. The area should be relatively easy to determine, you can do this either by the form of the pads where the legs will be soldered to or by the name: The place is marked "U1".

Then the orientation of this device is important. You can see a notch on the IC marker on the PCB. On the IC this side is also marked, for example by a dot or a thick line.

Now add a little bit of tin to the upper left pad on PCB. Do this by heading up the pad with your soldering iron and ''then'' applying tin to the pad, not the tip.

[[Category:Projekte]]
[[Category:Bausaetze]]

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:17:59Z

Marvin:

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:17:05Z

Marvin:

This Drawdio is a clone of the famous [http://web.media.mit.edu/~silver/drawdio/ Drawdio by Jay Silver]. This design is optimized to be cheap enough and have a component orientation that makes soldering quite easy, so you can train soldering SMT components for the first time. This the Drawdio accompanies our SMT soldering workshop.

==Schematic==
[[File:Drawdio.pdf]]

[[Datei:Drawdio1.jpg|thumb|400px]]
[[Datei:Drawdio2.jpg|thumb|400px]]

==Getting the Design Data==
You can checkout the git repository with the gschem schematics and geda pcb board file:
<pre>
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/drawdio
</pre>

==Building Tutorial==
We start with soldering the 555 Timer IC. For this, first think about how it has to be placed on the PCB. The area should be relatively easy to determine, you can do this either by the form of the pads where the legs will be soldered to or by the name: The place is marked "U1".

[[Category:Projekte]]
[[Category:Bausaetze]]

Datei:Drawdio.pdf

2012-05-12T19:01:07Z

Marvin:

Drawdio

2012-05-12T19:01:00Z

Marvin:

LED Cube/Zusammensetzen und testen

2012-05-09T09:10:03Z

Marvin: /* Den Microcontroller in seinen Socket stecken */

{{LED Cube Series/de}}

Diese Seite wird dir helfen die Cubestruktur und die Platine zu einem voll funktionsfähigen [[LED Cube]] zusammenzusetzen.

==Den Cube mit der Platine verbinden==
An dieser Stelle solltest Du die Cubeplatine bereits vorbereitet haben. Wenn Du dies noch nicht getan hast, möchtest Du dies vielleicht jetzt tun: [[LED Cube/PCB Lötanleitung]].

Jetzt: Es ist eine gute Idee die Orientierung des Cubes mitzubeachten. Einer der horizontalen Drähte der Ebene ist am weitesten aussen. Welcher das ist kannst Du von diesem Bild erfahren:
<gallery>
File:Cs3-040.jpeg
</gallery>
In diesem Fall ist es die Seite, die von dir wegzeigt. Versuche diese Seite auf die gleiche Seite zu bringen, auf die auch der USB-Anschluss auf der Platine ist. Es wird dann folgendermaßen aussehen:

<gallery>
File:Cs-050.jpg
File:Cs-051.jpg
</gallery>

An dieser Stelle hast Du bereits die Wahl getroffen, ob Du Anschlüsse für den Cube haben möchtest, oder nicht. Wenn Du '''keine''' Anschlüsse verwendest, löte den Cube einfach auf der Platine fest.
Wenn Du Anschlüsse verwendest, möchtest Du den Cube jezt dort hineinstecken, oder Du liest was wir dazu zu sagen haben:

Es kann sehr lästig sein, den Cube mit der Platine zu verbinden. Dies hängt davon ab, wie sauber deine Cubestruktur gebastelt wurde. Wir empfehlen die folgende Prozedur:
<ol>
<li>
Stecke die drei Beine auf einer Seite des Cubes in ihre Anschlüsse. Stelle sicher, dass sie wirklich drinstecken. Dies kannst Du machen, indem Du den Cube am Konstrukt anhebst: Wenn es schon in der Lage ist die Platine zu halten, ist alles in Ordnung. Klappt es noch nicht, möchtest Du vielleicht eine Kneifzangen verwenden, um '''sehr vorsichtig''' Druck auf die unteren LEDs auszuüben.

<gallery widths=300px heights=230px>
File:Cs-052.jpg
</gallery>
</li>
<li>
Nun hebe vorsichtig die Beine der adjazenten Reihe an und stecke sie in ihre Anschlüsse - aber stecke sie '''nicht''' komplett hinein, wie Du es mit der vorherigen Reihe gemacht hast. Dadurch sollte die letzte Reihe nun über ihren Anschlüssen schweben.
<gallery widths=300px heights=230px>
File:Cs-053.jpg
</gallery>
</li>
<li>
Nun stecke vorsichtig die Beine der mittleren Reihe komplett rein, eins nach dem anderen. Wärend Du dies machst, stelle sicher dass auch die Beine der letzten Reihe in ihre Anschlüsse gleiten. Sie werden wieder nicht komplett hineinreichen. Nachdem alle Anschlüsse der mittleren Reihe fertig sind, stecke die Anschlüsse der letzten Reihe komplett rein. Der Cube sollte an allen Anschlüssen feststecken:

<gallery widths=300px heights=230px>
File:Cs-054.jpg
</gallery>
</li>
</ol>

==Die Ebenenanschlüsse hinzufügen==
Jetzt wissen wir, wie der Cube auf der Platine positioniert wird. Als letzten Schritt löten wir die Anschlüsse für die Ebenen fest. Wie Du dich vielleicht erinnerst sind die Drähte der Ebenen noch nicht mit der Platine verbunden. Um das zu ändern, nimm etwas Silberdraht und dreh den LED-Cube so, dass der USB-Anschluss zu dir zeigt. Schneide dann ein Stück Draht ab, so dass es von der Platine bis zur obersten Ebene reicht.

<gallery widths=210 heights=160>
File:Cs-060.jpg
File:Cs-061.jpg
</gallery>

Stecke dieses Stück Draht in den rechtesten freien Anschluss von CONN10, wenn Du Anschlüsse verwendest, oder verlöte es auf der Platine am gleichen Platz, wenn nicht. Bieg den Draht so, dass er die obere Ebene berührt und löte die Stelle zusammen:

<gallery widths=210 heights=160>
File:Cs-062.jpg
</gallery>

Widerhole diesen Schritt für den mittleren Pin des Anschlusses und die mittlere Ebene und für den linken Pin und die unterste Ebene:
<gallery widths=210 heights=160>
File:Cs-063.jpg
</gallery>

==Den Microcontroller in seinen Sockel stecken==
Nimm den Microcontroller und biege die Beine wie bei dem Transistorarray. Steck ihn in den Sockel und achte dabei wieder darauf, dass die Einkerbungen an der richtigen Stelle sind.

<gallery widths=210 heights=160 perrow=2>
File:Cs-070.jpg|der Microcontroller
File:Cs-071.jpg|richtig gebogene Beine
File:Cs-072.jpg|Microcontroller im Socket
</gallery>

==Optische Kurzschlusssuche==
Jetzt ist es an der Zeit zu untersuchen, ob dein Cube Kurzschlüsse hat. Abhängig von deinem Testequipment kannst Du dies mehr oder weniger genau machen, aber es ist immer eine gute Idee diesen Schritt nicht zu überspringen. Nimm eine Lupe, wenn deine Augen zu schlecht sind.

==Programmierung des Bootloaders==
{{attention|Wenn du an einem cccgoe-Workshop teilnimmst, oder einen Bausatz mit einem vorgeflashten Microcontroller gekauft hast, kannst Du diesen Schritt überspringen!}}

Wenn Du keinen vorgeflashten Microcontroller hast, solltest Du nun entweder
# einen ISP-Anschluss auf der Platine anlöten und wir flashen den Bootloader später auf den Microcontroller, oder
# den Microcontroller außerhalb des Boards flashen.
Mach was dir besser gefällt.

==Testaufbau==
{{attention|Wenn Du an einem '''cccgoe-Workshop''' teilnimmst, kannst Du diesen Schritt überspringen, indem Du zu einem der Tutoren gehst. Er wird dir beim Testen helfen und dir (wenn er in einer guten Verfassung ist) genau erklären, was er gerade tut.}}

Jetzt kommt der aufregende Teil. Wir werden testen, ob Du alles falsch gemacht hast. Dieser Abschnitt ist in mehrere Sektionen unterteilt. Such dir diejenigen raus, die Du durcharbeiten kannst. Die Tests sind folgendermaßen angeordnet: Versuch zunächst den obersten Test. Wenn Du das Equipment hierfür nicht hast, gehe weiter zum nächsten Test darunter, und so weiter. Wenn Du einen der Tests abgeschlossen hast, kannst Du alle Tests darunter überspringen.

Bevor wir mit irgendwelchen Test beginnen, stelle sicher, dass der Bootloaderjumper in folgender Position ist:
<gallery>
File:lcpcb-10-02.jpg
</gallery>

{{attention|'''Beachte: Das Gerät das Du gebastelt hast ist dein Eigentum. Wir können keine Haftung für Defekte übernehmen, die an deinem USB-Host, Hub oder jeglichem anderen Gerät auf dem gleichen Bus entstehen. Wenn Du unsicher bist, ob Du das Risiko eingehen möchtest, dann lass das Testen!'''}}
===Test 1: Labornetzteil und USB-Isolierung===
Dies ist der sicherste Test, der hier beschrieben wird. Das ist auch der Test, der auf den cccgoe-Workshops durchgeführt wird.
Du brauchst
* Ein USB-Isolator geeignet für USB 1.1,
* ein Labornetzteil und
* einen Weg, um das Netzteil mit dem Isolator zu verbinden.

Verbinde nun deinen LED-Cube mit dem A-Port deines Isolators. Stell den Isolator auf geringe Geschwindigkeit (wenn nötig). Verbinde den Computer mit dem Du den Cube testen willst mit dem B-Port des Isolators.

Stell das Labornetzteil an, aber kontrolliere vorher ob die Ausgaben ausgestellt sind. Stell die Strombegrenzung auf ungefähr 40 mA. Stell das Spannungslimit auf 5 V. Verbinde das Labornetzteil mit dem Isolator.

Der Test startet, sobald Du das Netzteil anstellst. Du kannst nun zu [[#Testauswertung]] springen, bevor Du startest.

===Test 2: Labornetzteil und USB-Hub===
Wenn Du nur ein Labornetzteil hast, musst Du ein USB-Kabel nehmen und einen Weg finden dieses an der Stromversorgung anzuschließen.

Nimm hierfür vorsichtig das USB-Kabel und schneide die äußere Plastikisolationschicht in einer Länge von ca. 2 cm nahe des B-Connectors ab. Friemel die Abschirmung ab, aber schneide diese nicht komplett weg. Nimm das schwarze und das rote Kabel und schneide sie nahe der Hostseite deines geöffneten Kabels durch. Nun kann Du deine eigene Stromversorgung an diese Kabel anschließen.

Bereite die Stromversorgung wie in Test 1 vor. Der Test startet, sobald Du den Output anschließt, aber lies erst den Abschnitt [[#Testauswertung]], um herauszufinden wie die Testergebnisse zu bewerten sind.

===Test 3: Ein extern versorgter USB-Hub===
Dies ist wahrscheinlich der einfachste Test, aber er könnte dich den USB-Hub kosten, oder das Netzteil des USB-Hubs. Dafür wird die Wahrscheinlichkeit, dass dein Computer Schaden nimmt, stark herabgesetzt im Vergleich zum direkten Anschließen des Cubes. Verbinde einfach den Hub mit deinem Computer und versorge ihn mit einem externen Netzteil mit Strom. Der Test beginnt, sobald Du den LED-Cube an deinen USB-Hub anschließt. Gehe erst zum Abschnitt [[#Testauswertung]], um zu erfahren wie die Testergebnisse ausgewertet werden können.

===Test 4: Einen alten Computer verwenden, bei dem es nicht so schlimm ist wenn er kaputt geht===
Du kannst auch einen alten Computer zum Testen verwenden, bei dem Du dir sicher bist, dass es nichts ausmachen würde, wenn er kaputt gehen würde. Der Test startet, sobald Du den LED-Cube mit dem Computer verbindest. Lies erst den Abschnitt [[#Testauswertung]], um zu verstehen wie die Testresultate ausgewertet werden können.

===Test 5: Einen neuen Computer verwenden===
'''Tu das nicht. Such dir einen USB-Hub. Ernsthaft. Das ist kein Witz.''' Wieauchimmer, es ist dennoch möglich. Auch wenn dein Computer keinen Schaden nehmen ''sollte'', kann dies trotzdem passieren.

==Testauswertung==
Wenn der Stromverbrauch unter 40 mA bleibt, der Computer sich nicht ausgeschaltet hat und keiner der Hauptadapter in die Luft geflogen ist, ist wahrscheinlich nichts katasrophales passiert.
{{attention|Wenn du '''keinen vorgeflashten Microcontroller''' hast: Jetzt ist der Zeitpunkt, um deinen ISP zu verbinden und den Bootloader auf den Microcontroller zu flaschen. Die Anleitung zum Bauen des Bootloaders kannst du unter [[LED Cube/Building From Source]] finden.}}

Jetzt solltest Du eine Zeile in deinem Kernellog finden, die folgendermaßen aussieht:
<pre>[158825.185016] generic-usb 0003:16C0:05DF.000E: hiddev0,hidraw0: USB HID v1.01 Device [obdev.at HIDBoot] on usb-0000:00:1d.0-1.1.4.3/input0</pre>
Die Windowsuser unter euch sollten eine Benachrichtigung über ein neues USB-Gerät bekommen, aber nicht gefragt werden die Treiber zu installieren.

{{attention|Wenn du '''keinen vorgeflashten Microcontroller''' hast, musst Du bootloadHID benutzen, um die Firmware auf deinen Cube zu bringen, um diesen komplett testen zu können.}}

Die unter euch, die ein Labornetzteil mit Strombegrenzung haben, sollten nun den Strom auf 200 mA begrenzen.

Entferne nun den Bootloaderjumper. Die Defaultfirmware für alle Microcontroller ist eine Firmware, die jede einzelne LED anschaltet. Du kannst einen Blick auf den Referenzcube werfen, er wird folgende Animation zeigen: [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVYxH4zBbKc (youtube)].

{{Continue|Nun bist Du mit dem Bauen deines Cubes fertig. Nun ist es an der Zeit mit ihm zu spielen. Du kannst fortfahren, indem Du die '''[[LED Cube/Benutzeranleitung|Benutzeranleitung]]''' liest.}}

LED Cube/Using the Cube

2012-05-07T07:03:42Z

Marvin: /* Loading your Application */

{{LED Cube Series/en}}

Now we will learn to use the cube. But, first of all some theory.

==LED Cube Operation==
When powering up the LED Cube, it can be in one of two modi:
* '''Bootloader Mode''': In the bootloader mode, the LED Cube will enumerate at the USB Host it is connected to. You are then able to transfer a new application to the LED Cube.
* '''Application Mode''': In this case, the application that has been loaded last time when the LED Cube was in the bootloader mode will start.

The mode the LED cube will start in is set by the bootloader jumper. When it is on the left side, the LED Cube will be in the bootloader mode after startup.
<gallery perrow=2 widths=300 heights=200>
File:Lcpcb-10-02.jpg|the bootloader jumper in bootloader mode
</gallery>

If, on the other hand, it is on the right two pins or completely removed, The LED Cube will enter the application mode.

==Creating Your Own Animation==
There are many ways for creating an animation. For now, we will stick to separate frames which will be played in an endless loop. You can use our LED Cube web interface to create your animation: [http://cube6.0x53a.de/ cube6.0x53a.de].
{{attention|If you do not have IPv6 uplink visiting this site will fail ''always''. You may then also use a proxied version of this web interface at [http://sandroknauss.de/ledcube sandroknauss.de/ledcube]. This proxy is kindly provided by hefee for those of you who are still stuck in an IPv4 age. This version is limited to generating hex files and saving a animations. However, you can not re-load them. If you do want to use the full version of the web interface, get IPv6 uplink. The direct way for this would be to ask your Internet Service Provider. Alternatively you can ask [http://www.sixxs.net/ SiXXS] to provide you with an IPv6 tunnel.}}

Simply use this web interface to click your own animation. Once you have finished one, click on the 'Generate HEX' button. This will generate an application for your LED Cube, playing the animation you just created. Save this hex file on your disk and remember where it was.

==Loading Your Application==
Now we are going to load the application which is contained in the HEX file you just downloaded. To do this, we first need to get the host application to talk to the LED Cube bootloader. This process is different for Windows and Linux:
===Windows===
{{attention|@todo}}
===Linux===
You first need some software. In particular:
* make
* gcc
* libusb (including headers)
* git

For example, if you are using Ubuntu, the only thing you need to do is:
sudo apt-get install git git-core libusb-dev

Now we check out the LED Cube git:
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/cube-3

Then enter the directory where the bootloader tool is located.
cd cube-3/bootloader/commandline

And let's build this thing
make

Now, if everything went as expected, you will have a new file in this Folder. Type ls to check if it appeared:
ls

You should see a file named 'bootloadHID'. (You will also see a bootloadHID.exe. This is '''not''' it. This is for the windows people who are unable to build the tool for themselves ;) .)

Now set the bootloader jumper on your cube to bootloader mode (see above if you skipped the previous part) and '''re'''connect it. Then flash the new software onto the cube using the following command:
sudo ./bootloadHID -r '''<path to the hex file you just downloaded>'''

Communication

2012-05-06T20:19:09Z

Marvin:

<noinclude>{{attention|Vorsicht, diese Seite ist in der Hauptseite eingebunden!}}</noinclude>
'''E-Mail:''' hallo(at)cccgoe.de

'''XMPP MUC:''' cccgoe@muc.jabber.kaputtendorf.de ''(Im MUC kann in Erfahrung gebracht werden, ob aktuell jemand im Noklab ist und ob externe Menschen derzeit dort erwuenscht sind.)''

'''Mailingliste:''' [https://lists.cccgoe.de/mailman/listinfo/chaos-goettingen subscribe]

'''identi.ca:''' [http://identi.ca/cccgoe cccgoe], Gruppe [http://identi.ca/group/cccgoe !cccgoe],[http://identi.ca/group/noklab !noklab]

'''twitter:''' [http://twitter.com/ccc_goe ccc_goe]

===[[Noklab]]===

'''Adresse:''' Neustadt 7, 37073 Goettingen

'''Koordinaten:''' 9° 55' 48,1"O, 51° 32' 03,2"N [http://www.openstreetmap.org/?mlat=51.534179&mlon=9.930078&zoom=18&layers=M OSM]

'''Bananaphone:''' +49 551 - 288 770 14 (Mit Anrufbeantworter)

'''sip:''' 1220481@sipgate.de

Rent A Maker

2012-05-06T20:17:56Z

Marvin: Die Seite wurde neu angelegt: „You want to organize a workshop at your local event, for your school or in your company? You can either get a workshop just for you or we come to your location. C…“

You want to organize a workshop at your local event, for your school or in your company? You can either get a workshop just for you or we come to your location. Contact [[Benutzer:Marvin]] for more information about this.

Hauptseite

2012-05-06T14:30:23Z

Marvin:

__NOTOC__
Dies ist die Seite des '''CCC Göttingen'''. Wir sind der Göttinger Erfa-Kreis des [http://www.ccc.de/ '''Chaos Computer Club'''] und unterhalten den Hackerspace [[Noklab|'''Noklab''']].

<center>'''[[Mitglied werden]]!'''</center>



=Events=

Jeden zweiten Dienstag um 20 Uhr ist im [[Noklab]] ein explizit öffentliches Treffen, das '''[[OpenChaos]]'''. Jeder der uns kennenlernen möchte ist eingeladen an diesem Termin unverbindlich und spontan vorbeizuschauen.
Es finden Diskussionen zu aktuellen Themen und den laufenden Projekten statt und zudem werden unregelmäßig Vorträge gehalten, die '''[[Lightning Talks]]'''.

{|class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" style="background-color:#6f6fd7;"|Termine von uns, benachbarten Erfas und Veranstaltungen zu denen wir fahren
|-
! style="width:10em;"|Date || Event || Location
|-
| '''08-April''' '''20:00'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [[OpenChaos]]
| align="right" | '''[[Noklab]] Göttingen'''
|-
| '''18-Mai - 20-Mai'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [http://sigint.ccc.de/SIGINT_2012 SIGINT 2012]
| align="right" | '''Köln'''
|-
| '''17-Mai - 20-Mai'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [http://www.lug-camp-2012.de/ lug-camp 2012]
| align="right" | '''Flensburg'''
|-
| '''07-Juni - 10-Juni'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [https://entropia.de/GPN12 GPN12]
| align="right" | '''Karlsruhe'''
|-
| '''20-Juli - 22-Juli'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [[ Planung_Regiowochenende_2012 | CCC Regiotreffen 2012 ]]
| align="right" | '''Göttingen'''
|-
| '''02-Aug. - 08-Aug.'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [https://erlangen.ccc.de/index.php/Hauptseite ICMP]
| align="right" | '''Franken'''
|-
| '''07-Sep. - 09-Sep.'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [http://mrmcd.net/ MRMCD 2012]
| align="right" | '''Darmstadt'''
|-
| '''13-Okt. - 14-Okt.'''
| style="padding-left:1em;" | [https://www.c3d2.de/news/ds11-ds12.html Datenspuren]
| align="right" | '''Dresden'''
|-

|}
''Auch in anderen Städten lohnt es sich bei den jeweiligen [http://ccc.de/de/regional Chaostreffs, Erfakreise], [http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/ Hackerspaces] und FabLabs nach aktuellen Terminen zu schauen. Für Infos über größere Events besucht events.ccc.de.''

[[Vergangenes|(unvollständig) Vergangene Events]]

= Projekte =
{|class="wikitable"
!colspan="3"|Aktive Projekte
|-
|[[3D-Drucker]] || 3-D drucken und am Drucker basteln || Mitarbeit erwünscht
|-
|[[Pixelflut]] || Netzwerk+Pixel=Kunst || Fertig, Nutzer gesucht
|-
|[[Norbot]] || XMPP/Jabber Bot || Pausiert
|-
|[[Modlight | Moodlights]] || [[Noklab]] Raumbeleuchtung || Gehäuse fehlen, Software fehlt, etc. Mitarbeit erwünscht
|-
|[[Wandbemalung]] || NOKLAB Wandbemalung mit Features || Mitarbeit / Ideen erwünscht
|-
|[[Logo]] || Entwicklung von Logos für NOKLAB und ccc_goe || Mitarbeit / Ideen erwünscht
|-
| [[Hackercocktail]] || Liste lustiger Cocktails zum Coden || immer erweiterbar
|-
|[[Inventory|E-Lager]] || Lager an Elektronikbauteilen für den täglichen Gebrauch || immer korrigierbar
|-
|[[CmS|Chaos macht Schule]] || Wenn jemand anfängt, machen sicher mehr mit || Anstoss erwünscht
|-
|}

{|class="wikitable"
!colspan="2"|Abgeschlossene Projekte
|-
|[[Spacemaster_7000]] || Rosanes Device, um Spacestatus in den MUC zu posten.
|-
|[[Schliesssystem]] || Automatisches Türöffnungssystem
|-
|[[No Apple Sign]] || Statusanzeige, ob Applegeräte im NOKLAB sind
|-
|[[TVBGone/en|TVBGone]] || Bausatz für TVBGone
|-
|[[Bweamer]] || schwarz/weiß Beamer mit LED
|-
|[[Kuschelig]] || Heizungssteuerung per XMPP
|-
|[[USB Keyboard]] ||
|-
|[[2wiki.sh]] || Fotoupload ins Mediawiki per N900 (TODO: port aufs N9)
|-
|[[Marble Storage Ring]] || Murmelbahn, die [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljPB0DanK74 läuft und läuft und ...]
|-
|[[Sprachchat]] || Mumble
|-
|[[Brainfuck-Ook-Compiler]] ||
|-
|[[OZ960-hack]] || Reparatur der Hintergrundbeleuchtung eines Samsung X10 Notebooks
|-
|}

Hardwarestuff zum Verbasteln für neue Projekte findet ihr [[Rumflieghardware|hier]].

[[:Category:Bausaetze|Bausätze]]

[[:Category:Projekte|Projektarchiv]]

= Kontakt =
[[File:Anfahrt.png|thumb|300px|roter Marker: [[Noklab]] (Neustadt 7, 37073 Göttingen); türkiser Marker: Bahnhof Göttingen]]
{{:Communication}}

===Wegbeschreibung===
Zum Noklab: Vom Bahnhof aus die Goetheallee Richtung Innenstadt laufen und die zweite Strasse (Neustadt) rechts abbliegen.

Parken: In der Strasse kann nach 19 Uhr unter der Woche und nach 17 Uhr am Samstag kostenlos geparkt werden.

LED Cube/Using the Cube

2012-05-06T10:58:50Z

Marvin: /* Creating Your Own Animation */

{{LED Cube Series/en}}

Now we will learn to use the cube. But, first of all some theory.

==LED Cube Operation==
When powering up the LED Cube, it can be in one of two modi:
* '''Bootloader Mode''': In the bootloader mode, the LED Cube will enumerate at the USB Host it is connected to. You are then able to transfer a new application to the LED Cube.
* '''Application Mode''': In this case, the application that has been loaded last time when the LED Cube was in the bootloader mode will start.

The mode the LED cube will start in is set by the bootloader jumper. When it is on the left side, the LED Cube will be in the bootloader mode after startup.
<gallery perrow=2 widths=300 heights=200>
File:Lcpcb-10-02.jpg|the bootloader jumper in bootloader mode
</gallery>

If, on the other hand, it is on the right two pins or completely removed, The LED Cube will enter the application mode.

==Creating Your Own Animation==
There are many ways for creating an animation. For now, we will stick to separate frames which will be played in an endless loop. You can use our LED Cube web interface to create your animation: [http://cube6.0x53a.de/ cube6.0x53a.de].
{{attention|If you do not have IPv6 uplink visiting this site will fail ''always''. You may then also use a proxied version of this web interface at [http://sandroknauss.de/ledcube sandroknauss.de/ledcube]. This proxy is kindly provided by hefee for those of you who are still stuck in an IPv4 age. This version is limited to generating hex files and saving a animations. However, you can not re-load them. If you do want to use the full version of the web interface, get IPv6 uplink. The direct way for this would be to ask your Internet Service Provider. Alternatively you can ask [http://www.sixxs.net/ SiXXS] to provide you with an IPv6 tunnel.}}

Simply use this web interface to click your own animation. Once you have finished one, click on the 'Generate HEX' button. This will generate an application for your LED Cube, playing the animation you just created. Save this hex file on your disk and remember where it was.

==Loading your Application==
Now we are going to load the application which is contained in the HEX file you just downloaded. To do this, we first need to get the host application to talk to the LED Cube bootloader. This process is different for Windows and Linux:
===Windows===
{{attention|@todo}}
===Linux===
You first need some software. In particular:
* make
* gcc
* libusb (including headers)
* git

For example, if you are using Ubuntu, the only thing you need to do is:
sudo apt-get install git git-core libusb-dev

Now we check out the LED Cube git:
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/cube-3

Then enter the directory where the bootloader tool is located.
cd cube-3/bootloader/commandline

And let's build this thing
make

Now, if everything went as expected, you will have a new file in this Folder. Type ls to check if it appeared:
ls

You should see a file named 'bootloadHID'. (You will also see a bootloadHID.exe. This is '''not''' it. This is for the windows people who are unable to build the tool for themselves ;) .)

Now set the bootloader jumper on your cube to bootloader mode (see above if you skipped the previous part) and '''re'''connect it. Then flash the new software onto the cube using the following command:
sudo ./bootloadHID -r '''<path to the hex file you just downloaded>'''

Vorlage:Attention

2012-05-06T10:57:25Z

Marvin:

{{Box
|width=100%
|background=#fff4e6
|marking=#ff8c00
|image=[[Image:Imbox_content.png|40px]]
|text={{{1}}}
}}

LED Cube/Using the Cube

2012-05-06T10:57:11Z

Marvin: /* Creating Your Own Animation */

{{LED Cube Series/en}}

Now we will learn to use the cube. But, first of all some theory.

==LED Cube Operation==
When powering up the LED Cube, it can be in one of two modi:
* '''Bootloader Mode''': In the bootloader mode, the LED Cube will enumerate at the USB Host it is connected to. You are then able to transfer a new application to the LED Cube.
* '''Application Mode''': In this case, the application that has been loaded last time when the LED Cube was in the bootloader mode will start.

The mode the LED cube will start in is set by the bootloader jumper. When it is on the left side, the LED Cube will be in the bootloader mode after startup.
<gallery perrow=2 widths=300 heights=200>
File:Lcpcb-10-02.jpg|the bootloader jumper in bootloader mode
</gallery>

If, on the other hand, it is on the right two pins or completely removed, The LED Cube will enter the application mode.

==Creating Your Own Animation==
There are many ways for creating an animation. For now, we will stick to separate frames which will be played in an endless loop. You can use our LED Cube web interface to create your animation: [http://cube6.0x53a.de/ cube6.0x53a.de].
{{attention|If you do not have IPv6 uplink visiting this site will fail ''always''. You may then also use a proxied version of this web interface at [http://sandroknauss.de/ledcube sandroknauss.de/ledcube]. This proxy is kindly provided by hefee for those of you who are still stuck in an IPv4 age. This version is limited to generating hex files and saving a animations. However, you can not re-load them. If you do want to use the full version of the web interface, get IPv6 uplink. The direct way for this would be to ask your Internet Service Provider. Alternatively you can ask [http://www.sixxs.net/ SiXXS] to provide you with an IPv6 tunnel.}}

Simply use this web interface to click your own animation. Once you have finished one, click on the 'Generate HEX' button. This will generate an application for your LED Cube, playing the animation you just created. Save this hex file on your harddisk and remember where it was.

==Loading your Application==
Now we are going to load the application which is contained in the HEX file you just downloaded. To do this, we first need to get the host application to talk to the LED Cube bootloader. This process is different for Windows and Linux:
===Windows===
{{attention|@todo}}
===Linux===
You first need some software. In particular:
* make
* gcc
* libusb (including headers)
* git

For example, if you are using Ubuntu, the only thing you need to do is:
sudo apt-get install git git-core libusb-dev

Now we check out the LED Cube git:
git clone http://www.0x53a.de/git/cube-3

Then enter the directory where the bootloader tool is located.
cd cube-3/bootloader/commandline

And let's build this thing
make

Now, if everything went as expected, you will have a new file in this Folder. Type ls to check if it appeared:
ls

You should see a file named 'bootloadHID'. (You will also see a bootloadHID.exe. This is '''not''' it. This is for the windows people who are unable to build the tool for themselves ;) .)

Now set the bootloader jumper on your cube to bootloader mode (see above if you skipped the previous part) and '''re'''connect it. Then flash the new software onto the cube using the following command:
sudo ./bootloadHID -r '''<path to the hex file you just downloaded>'''

Vorlage:LED Cube Series/en

2012-05-06T08:41:57Z

Marvin:

{| border="2" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" rules="all" class="hintergrundfarbe1 rahmenfarbe1 float-right" style="margin:1em 0 1em 1em; border-style:solid; border-width:1px; border-collapse:collapse; empty-cells:show; font-size:90%; width:250px; float: right; clear: right;"
|- style="background-color:#ff7777;"
! colspan="2" style="font-size:120%" |[[LED Cube/en|LED Cube]] Series
|-
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#ffffff; margin: 0; padding: 0;" align="center"|
[[File:lc-front.jpg|250px]]
|-
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#ffffff;" align="center"|
Chapter 1: Build
Section 0: [[LED Cube/Preparation and Requirements|Preparation and Requirements]]
Section 1: [[LED Cube/PCB Soldering Manual|PCB Soldering Manual]]
Section 2: [[LED Cube/Cube Soldering Manual|Cube Soldering Manual]]
Section 3: [[LED Cube/Assembly and Testing|Assembly and Testing]]
|-
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#ffffff;" align="center"|
Chapter 2: Play
[[LED Cube/Using the Cube|Using the Cube]]
[[LED Cube/Creating an Animation|Creating an Animation]]
|-
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#ffffff;" align="center"|
Chapter 3: Learn
[[LED Cube/Understanding The Electronics|Understanding the Electronics]]
[[LED Cube/Custom Programs|Custom Programs]]
|}

Vorlage:LED Cube Series/en

2012-05-06T08:41:27Z

Marvin:

{| border="2" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" rules="all" class="hintergrundfarbe1 rahmenfarbe1 float-right" style="margin:1em 0 1em 1em; border-style:solid; border-width:1px; border-collapse:collapse; empty-cells:show; font-size:90%; width:250px; float: right; clear: right;"
|- style="background-color:#ff7777;"
! colspan="2" style="font-size:120%" |[[LED Cube/en|LED Cube]] Series
|-
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#ffffff; margin: 0; padding: 0;" align="center"|
[[File:lc-front.jpg|250px]]
|-
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#ffffff;" align="center"|
Chapter 1: Build
Section 0: [[LED Cube/Preparation and Requirements|Preparation and Requirements]]
Section 1: [[LED Cube/PCB Soldering Manual|PCB Soldering Manual]]
Section 2: [[LED Cube/Cube Soldering Manual|Cube Soldering Manual]]
Section 3: [[LED Cube/Assembly and Testing|Assembly and Testing]]
|-
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#ffffff;" align="center"|
Chapter 2: Play
[[LED Cube/Using The Cube|Using The Cube]]
[[LED Cube/Creating an Animation|Creating an Animation]]
|-
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#ffffff;" align="center"|
Chapter 3: Learn
[[LED Cube/Understanding The Electronics|Understanding the Electronics]]
[[LED Cube/Custom Programs|Custom Programs]]
|}